Gastronome

Fall Inspired Vegetarian Fare

2011-10-26T19:50:00.003-05:00

Before...

...and after!

Roasted cauliflower soup, cauliflower couscous, apple/fennel salad, crouton

Cider braised endive, pistachio, parmesan, apple

Potato gnocchi, acorn squash, maitake mushroom, tarragon, brown butter

Apple spice cake, cider caramel, goat cheese mousse, hazelnuts

Food Porn

2011-08-31T11:28:00.003-05:00

Here are some pictures from recent meals cooked here at home, enjoy!

The first meal started with:

A Duo of Spicy Gazpacho, Basil Oil, Pickled Oysters and a Fresh Blue Point with a Cherry Mignionette

Seared Red Snapper with Sake Poached Peaches and a Kohlrabi Slaw

The meal concluded with steamed head-on Gulf Shrimp with a Black-eyed Pea puree and Tarragon pan sauce, then for dessert a Honeydew Sorbet with Blueberry Coulis (sorry, forgot to get pictures of the last two courses, too much wine methinks.)

The most recent meal:

Steamed Mussels, Tomato Broth, Chorizo, Dill

Grape Tomato, French Breakfast Radish, Thumbellina Carrots, Cucumber, Mustard Greens, Crispy Potatoes, Pimenton Aioli

Black Cod, Corn Broth, Hatch Green Chiles, Cilantro Oil

This meal ended with what might be my last Texas Peach Cobbler of the season (again, no pictures, blame the wine.)

Transitions

2010-09-08T10:38:00.004-05:00

The approach of fall and the promise of cooler weather has inspired thought about the concept of transitional periods in life. This meal/menu, a celebration of the transition from summer to fall/winter, was the result.

Cantaloupe, Watermelon, Pickled Honeydew, Watermelon Gelee, Heirloom Tomato, Bacon, Arugula, Aioli

Roasted Kabocha Squash Soup, Thai Basil Oil, Pepitas

Papardelle, Braised Lamb Shank, Seared Trumpet Mushrooms, Fried Egg Yolk

Cafe con Chocolate, Churros, Mexican Vanilla Gelatto, Almonds

Special Summer Supper

2010-06-24T10:11:00.003-05:00

Here's a peek:

Roasted Beet, Globe Carrot, Easter Egg Radish, Baby Fennel, Roasted Dulce Pepper, Red Grape, Heirloom Tomato, Parmesan, Puffed Forbidden Rice

Seared Scallop, Corn, Ginger, Peach Butter, Bacon

Seared Niman Ribeye, Brown Beech Mushrooms, Celery Root Puree

Eat With Your Eyes

2009-11-05T11:26:00.006-06:00

I just watched the newest in a long line of food-system related films, Food, Inc. and while it might not bring a lot of new information to the table, it certainly does a good job of illustrating several key issues and continuing to bring our inherently flawed agricultural system into public discourse.

Interviews with Michael Pollan, Eric Schlosser and Joel Salatin highlight a well-produced trip through various aspects of the food production process, touching on everything from CAFO's to childhood obesity and industrial organic. While there have been myriad books published in recent memory on these subjects with more detailed information, Food, Inc. brings a different touch to the discussion by visualizing several things that are more poignant when seen and not just read.

A well executed film with a high production value and some very important information, I highly recommend giving Food, Inc. a place in your movie queue.

Food for Thought

2009-10-18T13:31:00.010-05:00

A large percentage of my reading time is devoted to my love for fiction, but I do try to intersperse a fair amount of non-fiction, and most of that is generally food related. No surprise there. Here are a couple of recent reads that I really enjoyed.

Sex, Death and Oysters

In this travelogue-style reader, fellow Texan Robb Walsh explores the oft misunderstood nature of oysters in a world tour that left me with a serious craving and a lot of new information about one of the most eco-friendly and fabled foodstuffs.

Just Food:
Where Locavores Get It Wrong and How We Can Truly Eat Responsibly

Austinite James E. McWilliams' tome takes an interesting look at our current food system, from organic to the industrialized farm. He proposes a 'golden mean' of food production for the future that does its best to recognize the pros and cons from both sides of this very important and impassioned debate.

Gastronomical Gear, Vol. 3: Pizza Stone

2009-09-30T11:47:00.005-05:00

While certainly not an everyday necessity, my new favorite piece of equipment in my kitchen has to be this beautiful pizza stone.

I am something of a pizza fanatic, eating it at least once a week, and to get pizza at home that can get anywhere close to rivaling those baked in lovely wood-fired ovens, you'll need one of these. The stone serves as a porous, pre-heated surface that aids the crust by removing moisture and distributing heat evenly across the base. Homemade, store-bought, or even reheated delivery will never be better than when cooked on a pizza stone.

Most commercial stones come with instructions for use, but there are also several online resources to answer any questions as to their proper use and how to achieve the best results. If you don't want to spend the extra money for a name-brand, you can head to your local hardware store and pickup an unglazed terra cotta tile that will do the job perfectly. Just be sure to get unglazed, the glaze is usually made with lead and that is not an appetizing topping.

For homemade use, I dust the stone with a bit of cornmeal, then place in a cold oven, pre-heat to 500 F, and let the stone sit in the 500 F oven for about 30 minutes before cooking. Pop the pie on the stone and cook until the crust/cheese are golden brown. Simple as that.

With results like this, who can argue?

A peel is a great tool for moving delicately constructed pizzas onto the screaming hot stone with minimal difficulty.

Here's another post with my basic pizza dough recipe (I usually alter this recipe to 16 oz. AP flour and 4 oz. Semolina flour for my pizza dough.)

Enjoy!

Quest for the Best

2009-09-08T13:02:00.006-05:00

When presented with that oft popular 'last meal' question I have come to a realization that anything on tortillas with salsa and fresh lime would have to fill that role. In fact, if I had to choose one thing to eat every day until that fateful end, tacos would certainly be my choice. There's just something so soul-satisfyingly perfect about the utter simplicity and deliciousness of a few ingredients happily married in a hand-held delivery device.

In that never-ending quest to find the 'Best' I took a Labor Day journey to the east side, and what I found was pure heaven. Las Cazuelas.

What this East Austin eatery might lack in the 'fanciness factor,' it makes up for in ambiance, authenticity and an amazing array of menu items. While they do offer a good deal of Tex-Mex, the real gems as Las Cazuelas are the more traditional Mexican fare. Wonderful things like Menudo, liver and onions, a tripe plate, even braised goat. As a chef (and eating with other chefs) it's things like these that make your eyes light up and your stomach grow exponentially.

Back to the tacos. Las Cazuelas has a pretty straightforward offering when it comes to tacos, anything from plain potato or nopales to more interesting choices like lengua or chicharron. After perusing my options, I opted for one chicharron and one tripe taco. My compatriot had two of the lengua tacos. The chicharron taco came with a simple dressing of onions and cilantro, and delivered in crispy unctuous fried-pork goodness. The tripe taco was simply the braised tripe served with some of it's braising companions, tomato and chile. Both were served on homemade tortillas and accompanied by lime. (I didn't get to try the lengua tacos but judging by the cleaned plate and the satisfied expression on my friend's face, I'd say they delivered as well.) One bite from each and I knew I'd be coming back to Las Cazuelas many more times to partake. The ridiculously huge Micheladas and the Tejano-filled jukebox didn't hurt. All in all a great meal with good drinks in a wonderful atmosphere. Best Tacos Ever.

Return to the Fray

2009-09-06T12:32:00.004-05:00

In what has certainly been an eventful summer, this blog has been forgotten and neglected. While I may have not been posting into the blogsphere, I most definitely have been reading and keeping up with all things culinary.

What have I been up to, you might ask? Here's a bit of what has kept me inspired and interested (and certainly busy):

First and foremost: Work

Where I've been eating: Olivia, Parkside, Fino

Some Web Interest: Ideas In Food, KevinEats, ChuckEats

The Boob Tube: Top Chef: Masters, Top Chef: Las Vegas

Stay tuned for new recipes, more photos, equipment reviews, and a host of all things culinary.

Go Blue

2009-06-08T11:14:00.005-05:00

Today is the first U.N.-sanctioned World Oceans Day, an opportunity to recognize and address the issues we have created with our most abundant and exploited resource, the sea.

The people at The Ocean Project are encouraging everyone today to "Wear Blue, Tell Two" as a way to increase public awareness of the issues our oceans face.

In addition, a documentary The End Of The Line is being released today that addresses the issue of overfishing and the damage the current commercial seafood industry has done.

Here we have yet another opportunity to recognize how our food choices affect the world we live in and how we can make a difference simply by voting with our dollars and choosing seafood that is responsible and ethical.

The Monterrey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch Program provides many resources including a handy and helpful list that makes responsible seafood choices that much easier.

Full Circle

2009-06-03T11:05:00.005-05:00

When I first started this blog a little over a year ago, my first post was regarding Michael Pollan's Omnivore's Dilemma, and how it had changed the way I thought about our food system and as a result what I put into my body. The book made me take into consideration the source and the impact of the food (most specifically the meat) I was eating.

Having just finished Peter Singer and Jim Mason's The Ethics of What We Eat (also published as The Way We Eat) I now find myself edging closer and closer to eliminating meat from my diet altogether. In a very well written and extremely informative tome, Singer and Mason break down three different family's eating habits, delving into the not-so-nice world of factory farming, the 'locavore' movement and 'fair trade' products.

This book is a wonderful (if not shocking) read and I recommend it highly.

As I get older (and wiser, hah) I generally feel more and more responsible for the choices I make and how they affect not just me but the world I live in, and the ethical questions raised in this book have really made me analyze what makes it's way into my shopping cart. As a chef, I feel it is my responsibility to lead by example and to educate as best as possible regarding our food system and how choices as seemingly simple as what we eat can have larger and permanent consequences.

All of that being said, this blog should making something of a shift towards vegetarian cuisine, as I limit the amount of meat (sustainable or not) that finds it's way into my pantry, so bear with me and (hopefully) enjoy the ride.

Raw and Unadulterated

2009-05-27T18:30:00.014-05:00

When ingredients are really fresh or perfectly ripe, I like to get the heck out of the way and, with minimal interference, let them shine. The beautiful Alaskan (line-caught) Halibut, the organic peaches and Thumbellina carrots I found today all fit that bill. With all the inspiration I needed from such lovely ingredients, this meal practically made itself.

Oyhou (Halibut) Sashimi, Daikon Pickles, Sake, Miso, Peaches, Carrots, Shiso
(Recipe serves 2)

10 oz. Halibut, sliced thinly

There's no need for concern when eating raw fish if you trust your supplier and the product's freshness.

Storage tip: Cut holes in the bottom of one of two interlocking tupperware/cambro/etc. and fill it with ice. Cover the ice with a layer of plastic, and keep the fish on the ice until ready to cook/serve. As the ice melts the bottom container provides a reservoir for the water.

For the Daikon pickles:
1 medium Daikon radish

Peel and slice the Daikon thin, or if you're lucky/dorky enough and you have a turning vegetable slicer, go to town.

Soak the cut Daikon in cold water for about 15 minutes (it will mellow out the harshness of the radish.) Drain.

Pickling Liquid:
2 cups Water
1/4 cup Ume Plum Vinegar

Ume (Plum) Vinegar is one of my favorites, sweeter than most and it provides a nice color as well as flavor.

3/4 cup Rice Wine Vinegar
1/2 cup Sugar
3-4 Star Anise
1 tsp. Cassia Buds (or Cinnamon stick)
1 tsp. Szechuan Peppercorns (or black Peppercorns)
1 Bay Leaf

Combine and heat until just at a boil, then remove from the heat.

Strain and pour (while still hot) over the Daikon.

Pickles will keep for about a month, refrigerated.

Sake/Miso Sauce:
1/4 cup Sake
1/2 tsp. Sugar
2 T. Shiro Miso

Shiro (white) Miso is a fermented soy product and is readily available in most stores.

1 tsp. Rice Wine Vinegar

Heat sake and sugar to dissolve.
Whisk into miso and vinegar to combine.

If you'd like some heat, add 1/2 tsp. of Sriracha.

Plate sashimi slices with sauce, sliced peaches, shaved carrots, and shiso.

The Shiso , or Perilla, is not just a garnish, eat it up.

Enjoy!

Sake to Me

2009-05-13T17:56:00.006-05:00

Anyone that knows me will tell you I have a slight predilection towards all things Japanese. Kitchen knives, Samurai movies, sushi. Sake is certainly no exception. I recently had the pleasure of trying SakeOne's Momokawa Diamond, a Junmai Ginjo Sake made right here in the United States. In fact, SakeOne is the only producer of Sake in the US. With plenty of old-school clout and know-how, the resulting product is comparable to any Japanese-made Ginjo (premium grade) sake, and priced in a more approachable range.

The Diamond, second-driest in their Momokawa line, is nice and floral, with subtle fruit flavors. A beauty to drink and to pair with any number of foods.

Many people are reluctant to try Sake after many a bad experience with the cheap, nasty stuff readily available to most, but give SakeOne a try and you're in for a pleasant treat.

Apologies

2009-05-06T10:30:00.002-05:00

I've been particularly busy with work and life recently, and this blog has suffered. I do hope to find the time in coming weeks to renew posting with regularity and vigor. *fingers crossed*

Sharper than Ever

2009-04-14T12:59:00.007-05:00

Over the past couple of years I have developed my skill using Japanese whetstones to sharpen, polish and hone knives to an amazing degree. I am often asked about sharpening others' knives as many lack either the knowledge or the equipment to do so properly and achieve the best results.

From My Kit

I will be offering a knife sharpening service to anyone who is interested, professional chef or home cook. I have added a small blurb on the right-hand bar with a link to my e-mail if you (or anyone you know) is interested, please send me an e-mail and we can settle the logistics and the cost.

Get those knives back in the shape they deserve, your arms and your food will thank you.

Grindin'

2009-04-02T09:52:00.005-05:00

There's really nothing quite like the aroma or flavor of freshly toasted and ground spices. While it is certainly easier just to pop a top and have ground Cumin at the ready, the difference in flavor between freshly toasted and ground and pre-ground spices is enough to warrant emptying out your spice cabinet and starting from scratch.

Anything that is available whole (Cumin, Corriander, Nutmeg, etc.) should replace their pre-ground equivalents. Nutmeg is the shiniest example. Once you smell and taste freshly ground Nutmeg you'll wonder how that innocuous brown powder earned the right to share names.

Most whole spices really benefit from a quick toasting to wake-up them up and add depth and nuance to what might be flat and boring flavors. To toast, simply add whatever spices you plan on using to a cold pan, crank the heat and toss until the spices release their oils (aromas and a little sound should accompany.) Let cool and it's time for grinding.

Finding the right tool for grinding can be a little overwhelming. While there are certainly myriad options, the key things to look for are: the ability to adjust your grind and ease of cleaning. Manual, electric, Molcajete, Mortar and Pestle. Each of these have pros and cons, and none are necessarily better or worse. Personally, I enjoy the RPMs of a coffee-style grinder. In fact, I use my grinder for both coffee and spices. But what about the residual flavors?

A simple and easy little trick.
Add about 1/4 cup of white rice, set your grinder to it's longest (finest) setting, and let her rip.

Dump the rice, wipe out the housing (use paper towels or a pastry brush,) remove the excess and you're ready to go.

Now what to use the toasted and ground spices for? Spice blends and mixes are absolutely better when done yourself. A perfect example is Chile powder. Most pre-made Chile powder is anything but flavorful. When you do it yourself, the options are limitless and the flavor is amazing.

Chile Powder:
(Recipe makes 1/4 cup)

4 Guajillo Chiles, stems and seeds removed
6 Chiles de Arbol, stems and seeds removed
2 tsp. Cumin Seed
5-6 Black Peppercorns
1 tsp. Mustard Seed
1 stick, Cinnamon
1/2 tsp. Garlic Powder
1 tsp. Brown Sugar
1/2 tsp. Pimenton

Toast the Chiles, Cumin, Mustard Seed and Peppercorns until aromatic. Let cool a minute.

Add to a spice grinder with the remaining ingredients and process until smooth.

Use Chile Powder in anything from momma's Chili to your favorite Mexican dish.

Enjoy!

Gastronomical Gear, Volume 2: Pans

2009-03-19T11:38:00.009-05:00

Outside of your knives, the cooking implements that come in contact with the food the most are definitely the pans. There is certainly a ridiculous amount of variety and choice in the world of pans, and a lot of terminology that is thrown around. What you need from a pan, conversely, is quite simple. You don't want your food to stick. You want the pan to get hot, stay hot, and transfer that heat to your food evenly.

As we strive to reduce our impact and encourage a healthier and more responsible diet, one thing that is constantly overlooked is the affect what we use to cook, not just what we cook, can have on our bodies. I'm not going to get into the science or health aspects of Teflon and non-stick cookware. All I need to know is that Teflon pans, when heated to a certain temperature (say, smoking hot to sear a piece of meat) release certain toxic gases into the air. Gases that kill pet birds. Frankly, I'd rather not inhale.

Alternatives, you ask?

Cast-iron skillets are 'preferred by chefs,' and for good reason. With proper treatment, they develop a better non-stick coating than their Teflon counterparts, and they'll last a lifetime. That's a lot more than you can say for most cookware. All the non-stick pans I've used in the past were only non-stick quite temporarily.

When I cook, I like to have control over what goes into my food, and with cast-iron, I know because I put it there. Certainly there's a little more upkeep involved in cast-iron cookware, but the results, involving both the food and those consuming it, are well worth the extra time needed to season, clean, and dry.

Surely there are a lot of options within the cast-iron world, and they can be quite expensive. The Le Creuset lines are beautiful, colorful, and enameled to protect the outside of the cookware, but they are quite pricey. Personally, I prefer the rugged beauty of the Lodge pans, and while the outside needs attention to prevent rust much like the inside needs attention, I don't mind giving it. Like I've said, a well-maintained cast-iron set can last a lifetime. Or two.

For my personal use, I have an 8" and a 12" cast iron skillet, as well as this cast-iron grill pan.

These three fill darn near every culinary need, and outside of a few instances, do most of my cooking.

I do like to keep a nice, clad, stainless pan around for certain applications, usually involving acids, that would be detrimental to my cast-iron. An aluminum pan would serve the same function, and at a lower price.

Say searing a chicken breast and then using the drippings to make a pan sauce. Something that would involved de-glazing the pan with alcohol, probably wine (or maybe Bourbon) and that is not something I like to do with cast-iron cookware.

The copper cladding in this pan is really nice as it adds that 'get hot and stay hot' quality of cast-iron and heats the food quite evenly.

While the cast-iron and stainless do provide me with 99% of my pan needs, there are a couple of applications (namely Crepes and Omelettes) than I keep a small Teflon pan around for. You have to be careful not to heat the pan too high and certainly not use metal tools, but the Teflon pan is nice for a handful of applications. I would never spend the big bucks on some of the flashy Teflon cookware out there when the inexpensive restaurant supply brand pans do the trick for a fraction of the price.

As with most things, there is no wrong or right, just what works for you. If you're in the market for cookware, I would definitely advise you to look towards cast-iron and avoid the many pitfalls of over-priced non-stick cookware. They have their place in a kitchen, it's just a very small one.

It Was a Blogger Bash

2009-03-17T12:50:00.004-05:00

Kudos to Austin360.com, Whole Foods, and Go Texan for hosting (what will hopefully be an annual event,) the Food and Wine Blogger Bash last night. With cooking demos from Tyson Cole and Jesse Griffiths as well as a Texas Two-Sip blind wine tasting the event entertained the palette as well as the mind.

Workin' Hard

2009-03-12T10:51:00.005-05:00

Apologies for the lack of posts over the last week, but I've been quite busy at work, opening the new location of Zoot Restaurant. The website isn't updated, but the new digs at 11715 Bee Caves Road are bigger, better and officially open for business. Bringing you the same Zoot with a new bar area and more seating, as well as a beautiful patio area. Come out and see us, you will not be disappointed.

Brine + Swine = Divine

2009-03-02T15:12:00.017-06:00

One technique that should be in every cook's repertoire is Brining. Nothing helps to add flavor, moisture and tenderness like a salty bath. While there are certainly a lot of recipes and ratios for brining, there is no steadfast set-in-stone combination, so try what you like and adjust accordingly. Few proteins respond as well to brining or result quite as nicely as Pork. One taste of the delicious results and you'll seldom cook swine without some time in a brine.

Beer-Brined Pork Chops with Yellow Tomato Marmalade, Herbed Gnocchi Romana and Wild Mushroom Succotash
(Recipe serves 2-3)

For the Brine:
1 cup Beer (I used Paulaner Hefeweizen, use whatever you'd like)
1/2 cup Water
1/4 cup Kosher Salt
1/4 cup Cane Sugar

Combine all and whisk to dissolve.
(Using a room-temperature beer is advised, the salt/sugar will dissolve quicker.)
Pour over:

2 Center-Cut Pork Chops (Niman Ranch beauties)

Brine anywhere from 30 minutes up to 4 hours. (The thicker the chops, the longer you can leave them in.)
When you're ready to cook, remove the chops from the brine, and give them a rinse.
Pat dry with paper towels.
Let rest (refrigerated) for 30 minutes to an hour. This allows for even distribution of the brine flavors.
Score the fat (if your chops have fat on the edges) to prevent them from curling while they cook.

Season with salt (less than your normal amount) and pepper.
In a hot skillet lightly coated with oil, sear chops on both sides until golden brown. (Save the skillet for the Succotash.)

Finish chops in a 350F oven. (I prefer mine medium, avoid the common mistake of over-cooking pork, it'll be much more delicious.)
(Note: Meat that has been brined will maintain a pink-ish hue even when cooked through.)
Rest and serve.

For the Gnocchi Romana:
1/4 cup Semolina (easy to find, near the flour, etc.)
3/4 cup Chicken Stock
1/4 cup Milk
1 Egg Yolk
2 oz. grated Parmiggiano
1 oz. chopped Herbs (I used a combination of Parsely, Oregano, Thyme and Rosemary)

Bring stock and milk to a boil.
Add Semolina, lower heat and cook, stirring until thickened.

Off of the heat, add cheese and herbs.
Season to taste.
Stir in the egg yolk.
Add the dough to butter/oiled muffin tins, cover with plastic wrap and press into shape.

Refrigerate about an hour (or until you're ready to cook.)
Remove from the tins and place on an oiled tray.
Top each with a a pat of butter and some grated Parmiggiano.

Bake at 350F until browned and heated through (about 15-20 minutes.)
Finish under the broiler for some color.

For the Marmalade:
1 cup Yellow Pear Tomatoes
3/4 cup Cane Sugar
1 Meyer Lemon, zested and juiced
1 tsp. Salt
4 sprigs, Lemon Thyme

Combine all ingredients in a saucepot and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally.

Simmer until desired consistency, breaking up tomatoes a bit with a spoon.

For the Succotash:
4 King Trumpet Mushrooms, sliced thin
1/2 cup Brown Beech Mushrooms (separated)
1/4 White Onion, diced
1/4 cup Corn

Wash mushrooms thoroughly and dry.
Heat skillet (preferably the skillet you used to sear the chops.)
Add additional oil (if necessary.)
Add onions, and toss to color.
Add mushrooms and toss.
When mushrooms release their liquid (listen to the pan!) add corn.

Season to taste.

Plate and Enjoy!

Gastronomical Gear, Volume 1: The Chef's Knife

2009-02-25T12:03:00.012-06:00

As a chef, the equipment you use is an extension of you; how you directly interact with the food. From the professional chef to the casual home cook, a working knowledge of the tools of the trade can only make the cooking experience easier and more enjoyable. With this Gastronomical Gear series of blogs, we'll delve into myriad topics related to culinary tools.

First and foremost in any cook's arsenal is the knife. While there are numerous types of knives for many different jobs, the keystone to any knife kit is the Chef's Knife or Gyutou.

From My Kit

There are volumes of arguments and debate over German vs. Japanese, this brand vs. that brand, and there are no right answers. What matters most is that you find a knife that fits you, and serves your purpose.

When asked what I would recommend, I steer people towards Japanese knives. While German Wusthof's and Henckels' of the world sell quite a few knives based on reputation, Japanese knives are the most advanced in terms of steel, quite varied in terms of purpose, and ultimately perform at a higher level than their German counterparts. There is however, more upkeep involved in a Japanese knife. If you'd like a less labor-intensive but heavier, less agile and certainly less sharp knife, German is for you. Don't forget, there are a lot more accidents with dull knives than sharp, so don't be scared of something exceptionally sharp. The longer I own Japanese knives and I work on my sharpening technique and skill, the more personal these knives become to me, and the more I really appreciate the craftsmanship and history involved in Japanese cutlery.

While the variety and surely the language differences can be overwhelming and possibly discouraging, there is an unanimous 'gateway' knife into the world of Japanese cutlery. The Tojiro line of knives are very affordable (Gyutou from $50-$80, quite competitive with their German counterparts,) very reliable and take a minimal amount of effort to learn and maintain. If you're looking to get into Japanese knives, your first purchase should be a Tojiro DP Gyutou. If you're concerned or wary of a larger knife, start small and move forward from there. This line of knives is available at Korin Trading Co. who offer great customer service and quick shipping. Korin also offers sharpening stones, instructional DVD's and years of experience.

If you're going to buy a Japanese knife, you should absolutely budget for a Sharpening Stone. I'd recommend, for a first-timer, a King 1000/6000 grit stone. It provides you with a medium and a fine stone for a reduced price and in half the space. With Japanese knives, you'll absolutely want to take the time to learn the basics of sharpening, as the results you'll achieve are more than worth it.

There are quite a few resources regarding knives (buying, sharpening, maintenance, etc.) Chad Ward's book An Edge in the Kitchen is a great tool for anyone interested in expanding their knowledge. There is also a very handy Knife Maintenance and Sharpening post by Chad on eGullet. If you're looking for advice, Foodie Forums or the In The Kitchen section of Blade Forums can connect you with many experts and enthusiasts willing to share their experience and knowledge.

I have several links to retailers and resources in the world of kitchen cutlery, and will gladly answer any questions (to the best of my knowledge) or point you in a direction of someone who can answer.

Again, there are no right answers, and your knife should be your choice and make you feel comfortable using it.

Festival Fun

2009-02-20T11:36:00.004-06:00

The Hill Country Wine and Food Festival is fast approaching, and their updated website is live and selling tickets to all of the events. Year after year, the Wine and Food Festival has been one of my favorite foodie events here in the greater Austin area, and judging by the events scheduled for this year, it will not disappoint in 2009.

If you don't make it to any other events, make sure to attend the Sunday Fair, hosted this year at the Vineyards at The Salt Lick.

Uchi Means House

2009-02-16T18:31:00.004-06:00

Many thanks to Samantha Davidson and Uchi for hosting a Food Blogger Tasting showcasing Uchi's culinary fare and bringing Austin's food bloggers together for food and fun.

The food, as usual, was delicious and beautiful. Chef Cole's 'Japanese food for the American palette' has garnered much recognition and deservedly so. From Beet Terrine or Scallop Crudo, to (my favorite) the unctuous Braised Pork Belly, the food was artfully presented and skillfully prepared.

If you're in the mood for a playful and unique meal, Uchi is definitely a must-visit restaurant.

Exploration Made Easy

2009-02-15T11:30:00.003-06:00

One of my favorite aspects of cooking is finding a new combination, a new flavor profile or an interesting substitution to an existing dish that pleases the palette and expands my culinary repertoire.

Food science has come a long way.

It is common knowledge that foods that share certain flavors (more specifically certain chemicals) tend to taste better together. Belgian food scientists have developed an easy, user-friendly website to take the guesswork out of culinary experimentation. Using Food Pairing, which breaks down food into it's major flavor components, you can combine ingredients in new ways or substitute new ingredients into old recipes without the 'I hope this works' trepidation often associated with exploration. Next time you're staring at a random assortment of foods, unsure of what the heck you're going to make, utilize this website and make your culinary life that much easier.

Cook the Plank

2009-02-06T18:01:00.014-06:00

Inspiration for this week's foray into uncharted territory came courtesy of the weekly Wheatsville Coop e-mail, in which Bryan, the 'meat guy' extolls the virtues of a very interesting and somewhat rare ingredient. Ivory King Salmon.

Most wild Salmon derive their pink-ish hue from their diet that consists of carotenoid-rich shellfish. There is, however, a rather small percentage (around 5%) of the King Salmon population that do not posses, for whatever reason, the ability to absorb said pigments and maintain a white flesh instead of the signature 'Salmon' color. For many years these genetic oddballs were considered waste but they have recently developed a culinary following and have become prized for their more delicate flavor and obvious rarity.

To tackle such an ingredient, I decided to utilize a beautiful cedar plank that I received as a gift.

What follows are the quite pleasant and delicious results of this adventure in culinary novelty.

Cedar Plank Roasted Ivory King Salmon with Blood Orange Confit, Roasted Root Vegetables and Yukon Gold Coins
(Recipe Serves 2)

2 filets Ivory King Salmon, skin and pin-bones removed

Season Salmon with salt, pepper.
Drizzle with Olive Oil.
Sear in hot pan to color.

Set Aside.

For the Confit:
1 blood orange, zested, cut into supremes, juiced
1/2 Meyer lemon, juiced
2 sprigs Lemon Thyme
1 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
pinch Salt

Blanch orange zest in boiling water about 30 seconds.
Remove and rinse under cold water, set aside.

Heat water, sugar and thyme just to a boil.
Remove from heat and let steep about 15 minutes.
Remove thyme sprigs.
Add orange zest and juice.
Simmer until reduced to syrup consistency.

Add lemon juice, salt and reserve.

For The Veggies:
4 small carrots, washed
1 turnip, washed, peeled and diced
Olive Oil, as needed
Salt, Pepper, as needed

Blanch carrots and turnip pieces separately in boiling water for about 2 minutes.
Rinse in cold water and/or shock in ice water.
Toss with Olive oil, salt, pepper.
Reserve.

For the Potatoes:
4 small Yukon Gold Potatoes, washed
Canola Oil, as needed
Salt, Pepper, as needed

Slice potatoes using a Mandoline (for uniformity, or just use a knife if you choose) and hold in water to cover.
Blanch potatoes in boiling water for about a minute (less for thinner slices, more for thicker.)
Shock in ice water.
Set on towels to dry.

Heat about 1/4" oil in a skillet.
Add a layer of potatoes to cover the bottom of the skillet.

Cook until brown. Flip.
When both sides are browned, remove to paper towels and season with salt/pepper.

For the Plank Roast:
1 cedar plank, seasoned with oil on the top side

Preheat oiled plank in the oven (350F.)
Add seared Salmon.
Surround with oiled/seasoned veggies.

Roast in the oven until Salmon is cooked to your liking (I prefer mine medium, if you like it more, let it go longer.)
Let rest on the plank.

Garnish with Blood-orange supremes and Lemon-Thyme.
Serve and Enjoy!

Risotto Demystified

2009-01-30T19:29:00.005-06:00

Risotto is one of those dishes that has a certain level of mystique and mythology associated with it, most of which is unnecessary and untrue. When prepared properly it can be absolutely heavenly, but miserable when done incorrectly. Although it has a somewhat daunting aura associated with it, it is, in fact, quite easy and something of a blank canvas when it comes to being creative and adding your personal touch.

As with most cooking, Risotto relies on sound technique, and while there are plenty of recipes out there, understanding the basic technique is vital. Once you get that feel for when to add liquid, how much to stir, and when to stop the cooking, the flavors and accouterments you add are infinite and you are free to be truly creative.

The key to a great Risotto is activating the amylopectin in the short-grain rice and creating that wonderful creamy sauce. While a lot of tradition calls for you to be chained to the stove and constantly stirring, this is neither necessary or beneficial to your Risotto. The only requirement for Risotto is using said short-grain rice, as they contain the highest ratio of the amylopectin that leads to the proper texture. While Arborio rice is widely available, there are certainly many more short-grain varieties that can be used instead. Stir it when you feel it needs to be stirred, add liquid when you feel it needs it. The key to avoiding a miserable result is stopping the cooking process at the appropriate time.

With these guidelines and this recipe illustrating the basic technique, you're sure to have success as well as a delicious meal.

Kale, Herb and Gruyere Risotto
(Recipe serves 2 people)

1 cup, Arborio Rice (any short-grain rice works)
3-4 cups, Chicken Stock
1 Meyer lemon, Juiced
1 T. Butter
1 T. Olive oil
2 cloves Garlic, sliced thin
8-10 Parsley stems, minced
1/4 cup, Gruyere cheese, shredded
1/4 cup Herbs, chopped fine (Parsley, Oregano, Thyme, Rosemary)
1/4 cup Hazelnuts, toasted then roughly chopped
1 bunch Kale, stems removed, sliced thinly, blanched and drained

Combine stock and lemon juice in one pot.
Heat over low, boiling is not necessary, the stock just needs to be hot.

In another pot, heat oil.
Add Parsley stems and Garlic and toss.

Add rice immediately and stir until the grains become somewhat translucent.

Add enough liquid to cover the rice and stir.
Adjust heat so the mixture is boiling lightly.

Stirring constantly is not necessary, but the occasional stir lets you get an idea of how much liquid has been absorbed.
When most of the liquid is absorbed, add liquid to cover. A good indicator is that the rice separates when a spoon is pulled through.

Repeat these steps until the rice, when tasted, has a bit of texture left ("tooth" as it's called.)
Remove from the heat.
Stir in the Kale, the herbs and the cheese.
Finish with the butter and stir until it's incorporated.

Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
Plate and garnish with more herbs, cheese and the toasted hazelnuts.
Drizzle with a good olive oil and enjoy!

In a Pickle

2009-01-23T16:51:00.012-06:00

One of my absolute favorite treats has to be the pickle. Sweet, salty, and sour with a lovely texture to match. Be it as a snack or as part of a meal, these culinary delights pack quite a delicious punch. I have nothing against pickled cucumbers, but there is a world of pickle possibilities that do not include what most would consider when thinking of a pickle. Onions, carrots, cabbage, chiles; you name it. What is important is a basic understanding of the technique involved, not a steadfast recipe. Like many other cooking techniques, once you understand the method, there are myriad options and flavors that you can experiment with.

The basic pickling template is as follows: Equal parts vinegar and sugar. Add spices. Boil. Pour over desired pickle subjects and let sit.

The type of vinegar and the spices you use should be based on your desired flavor profile and should also take into account the nature of what you are pickling. I chose Asian-style spices as I'm pickling Thai chiles. I prefer whole spices, as they don't cloud the vinegar and strain out easily. If you like your pickles sweeter, increase the amount of sugar. If you find them too acidic, lower the amount of vinegar. If you like them salty, add more salt. There is no right or wrong, just what you like, so be bold and have fun.

Most pickling involves canning, which can be tedious, somewhat scary to the first-timer and equipment-heavy. I prefer, for ease and speed, a quick pickle, which skips the canning and assumes you'll polish off your preserved gems before they'd even have a chance to go bad. For the purpose of illustrating this technique, I will be pickling some beautiful Thai Chiles.

Quick-Pickled Thai Chiles

Large handful Thai Chiles (about 15-20)
1 cup White Vinegar
1 cup Sugar
3 Star Anise Pods
1 Bay Leaf
1 tsp. Corriander Seeds
1 tsp. whole Black Peppercorns
2 Cloves
1 tsp. Cassia buds (or one cinnamon stick, split)
1 clove, Garlic, smashed
1 oz. piece Ginger, peeled and sliced
1 tsp. Salt

Combine everything but chiles and bring to a boil.

Remove from heat and let steep for a good 15 minutes.
Strain pickling liquid over chiles.

Cover and refrigerate.
Pickles will be ready to eat in about 3-4 hours but are best overnight. (If you want the pickles done faster, slice them before adding the pickling liquid.) The pickles will keep for about two weeks in your fridge.
Enjoy!

Pickled chiles are great as a garnish as they bring a lovely combination of heat, sweetness and acidity to any dish. Try them with Sashimi or seared Tuna. I recommend serving them sliced thinly, and with most of the seeds removed (unless you want some serious heat.) Also, the vinegar goes great on greens.

Simple is Delicious

2009-01-16T17:31:00.009-06:00

Frivolity and fussiness aside, the most delicious food is more often than not the simplest. Nothing embodies simplicity to me more than roasted chicken. There's something so soul-warmingly special about a really good roasted chicken that all the foam and fanciness can't possibly touch. With a beautiful pasture-raised chicken from Dewberry Farms (thank you Wheatsville) the best you can do is use proper technique, get out of it's way and let the chicken shine.

Meyer Lemon and Herb Roasted Chicken
(Recipe serves 3-4 people)

(Served here with Potato Puree, sauteed Leeks and Maitake)

1 3lb. Whole Chicken, innards removed, trussed (if you don't know how, ask your meat-person)
1 Meyer Lemon, split
1 yellow Onion, sliced
5 cloves, Garlic, smashed
3 springs, Rosemary
3 bunches, Thyme
1 bunch, Italian Parsley
2 T. Butter
Salt, Pepper and Canola Oil as needed

Place onion, half the herbs, and 3 cloves of the garlic in a roasting pan. Toss with Canola Oil.
A rack is not necessary, but use one if you have it.

Set aside half the lemon, 2 cloves garlic, half the herbs. This is your stuffing material.

Season the outside AND inside of the chicken with salt and pepper.
Sear chicken on all sides to brown in a hot skillet with enough Canola oil to coat.

Remove chicken.

Stuff cavity with reserved stuffing materials (lemon, garlic, herbs.)

Squeeze half the lemon over the bird.
Rub the outside of the bird with the butter.
Roast at 400 F for about an hour and a half. (roughly 30 minutes per pound)
Do not rely on the time, it is just a guideline. The best way to tell when a bird is done is a thermometer. The desired doneness for poultry is 165 F, but pull the bird when it measures about 158-160. It will continue to cook as it rests. The best place to take a bird's temperature is the joint where the leg meets the body.

As the bird rests, remove the lemons from the cavity and squeeze over the bird.
Carve up your bird and enjoy with your desired sides.
Be sure to drain off the pan drippings and use as a complementary sauce.
Enjoy!

A note: When you've picked your bird clean, use the carcass and some mirepoix/herbs and make some homemade stock.

Sustainable USDA

2009-01-08T10:55:00.004-06:00

The folks over at fooddemocracynow.org have put together another great petition to help influence our country's agriculture policy.

Their focus has shifted to the Under Secretary positions at the USDA, and they have put together a list of the Sustainable Dozen candidates they are recommending. Hurry over and sign the petition and help steer our public policy and help keep our food local, fresh and sustainable.

Meatballin'

2009-01-02T18:38:00.006-06:00

'Spaghetti and meatballs' gets a really bad rap, as far as I'm concerned. While I'm sure we've all had a really crappy plate of overcooked pasta with dry meatballs swimming in sauce, I still really enjoy the combination of flavors and textures this dish provides. This recipe provides a really quick and easy Arrabiata sauce (spicy tomato sauce) and a basic (but yummy) meatball recipe that won't fail to renew your faith in this classic combination.

A note: Canned tomatoes? Yes, I use canned tomatoes. In fact, the Italian San Marzano tomatoes are quite easy to find, and are absolutely delicious in many applications. These canned gems are a staple item in my pantry, and make a great sauce.

Pasta Arrabiata with Meatballs

For the Sauce:
(Recipe makes about 1 cup sauce)

1 28oz. can, San Marzano Tomatoes
2 cloves Garlic, smashed
1 tsp. red pepper flakes
1 tsp. Fennel seed
1/2 tsp. dried Oregano
1/2 tsp. dried Basil leaves
1 Bay leaf
1/4 cup red wine
1 T. brown sugar
2 T. Capers, drained, rinsed
2 t. Olives (any kind you wish) drained, rinsed, rough chopped

Simmer tomatoes, garlic, herbs, spices, wine, and sugar on low.

When most of the liquid has evaporated, remove from heat.

Remove bay leaf and break up garlic cloves with your spoon (or remove if you desire.)
Stir in capers and olives.
Season to taste.

For the Meatballs:
(Recipe makes about 20 1" diameter meatballs)

1 lb. meat (beef, pork, veal or any combination of the three)
2 oz. hot Sopresata, diced (or Salami, Pepperoni, etc.)
1/4 cup Parmigiano cheese
1/2 cup bread crumbs
3 cloves Garlic, minced
2 sprigs, Thyme, removed from stem and minced
1 sprig, Rosemary, removed from stem and minced

Pulse meat and Sopresata in a food processor until combined.
Add in bread crumbs, cheese, garlic, herbs, salt and pepper.
Pulse to combine.

Remove a piece of the mixture and cook. Taste. This is really the best (and only) way to check the seasoning of raw meat products.
Adjust seasoning accordingly.
Remove from food processor and roll meatballs between your hands to shape.

(Freeze any unused meatball mix for up to two months.)

Saute meatballs (5-7 per person) in olive oil to brown, then add in about 2 oz. of sauce per person and a little red wine and simmer to finish meatballs.

Add in a small handful of cooked pasta per person (I used linguine, use whatever you like) and toss to coat.

Serve with a drizzle of olive oil, freshly grated Parmigiano and a nice hunk of toasted bread.
Enjoy!

Blog Hard for the Money

2009-01-02T13:41:00.004-06:00

I know I could use a vacation (to a foodie destination for sure) and HomeAway is offering us bloggers a chance to do just that.

HomeAway is offering all bloggers, vloggers and photographers the chance to win a $5,000 getaway to the HomeAway vacation rental of their choice!

Enter from December 18, 2008 - January 7, 2009 by telling (or showing) us why you need a break and where you want to spend it. To participate, contestants must submit a 350-word blog post, a two-minute video, or up to 10 photos with captions that are 20 words or less.

Then, from January 8-15, people from around the world can browse the entries and vote for their favorite.

Visit http://blog.homeaway.com for more information.

Lazy Morning Luxury

2008-12-27T11:19:00.006-06:00

For some reason, I have always held waffles in very high regard among breakfast foods. This is by far - and I've done quite a bit of testing - the best recipe for waffles. Add nuts, spices, fruit or any flavorings you desire to make your waffles special. This recipe is a blank canvas.

Best Waffles Ever
(Recipe makes 4 waffles)

2 eggs, separated (yolks in one bowl, whites in another)
2 T. sugar
1 1/2 cups milk
1 T. Canola oil
1/4 tsp. Vanilla extract
2 cups, AP flour
1 tsp. salt
1/4 cup sugar

Whisk egg whites and 2 T. sugar to form soft peaks.

Whisk to combine yolks, vanilla, milk and oil.

Sift flour, salt, 1/4 cup sugar and any dry ingredients into yolk mixture.

Stir to combine. A key here is not to over-mix, which will result in a tough texture.
Rest the batter for 15 minutes. This is another key step that allows the flour particles to fully hydrate and creates a better texture.
Fold the egg whites and any nuts/fruit into the mixture just to combine.

Add mixture to a sprayed, pre-heated waffle iron to coat.

Cook until golden-brown and delicious.
Serve with whipped cream, maple syrup, butter and any fixings you desire.
Enjoy!

Asian Persuasion

2008-12-19T18:42:00.010-06:00

People always ask me how I choose what to cook. I go to the store/farmer's market and see what looks good, and I go from there. That's it. No elaborate planning. Cooking from the hip, as it were. Seasonal squash, lovely Niman Ranch pork and a love for soup inspired this Asian influenced creation. Crispy, succulent pork loin offsets the sweet and spicy Butternut soup. The time put into this dish is definitely paid back to you in delicious spades.

Spicy Butternut Soup with Crispy Pork and Pear/Daikon Slaw
(Recipe serves 6-8)

For the Soup:
1 Butternut squash, split, seeded, peeled and diced

1 T. Canola Oil
2 cups Stock
2 cups Water
1 T. Ginger, minced
1 T. Garlic, minced
2 Star Anise pods
3 Bay Leaves
1/4 cup Sweet Chili Paste
1 T. Sambal
1 T. Sriracha
(Note: This does make for a very spicy soup, so if you'd prefer less heat, use less chili paste, Sriracha and Sambal.)

Toss Butternut squash with oil and a pinch of salt. Roast at 300 F for 20-30 minutes until browning starts.
Remove.

Add squash to a pan with stock, garlic, ginger, star anise, and bay leaves.
Bring to a simmer and cook until squash is soft.

Strain liquid and reserve.
Puree solids in a blender with some of the cooking liquid until smooth.
Add back to a pan and adjust consistency with reserved cooking liquid.
Whisk in chili paste, Sambal and Sriracha.

Adjust flavor with salt and sugar.
Reserve.

Crispy Pork:

1 1/4 lbs. Pork Loin, Center Cut, Fat still attached

Marinade:
1/4 cup Mirin (Rice Wine)
1/4 cup Rice Wine Vinegar
1/8 cup Apple Cider Vinegar
2 T. Sriracha
1 T. Canola Oil
1 T. Hoisin sauce
1 T. Brown Sugar

Combine all.

Marinate Pork Loin for at least an hour and up to four.

1 T. Canola Oil
1/2 Onion, medium dice
1 Jalapeno, sliced
1 T. Ginger, minced
1 T. Garlic, minced
1 cup Mirin
1-2 cups stock/water

Heat a saucepan. Add canola oil.
Sear all sides of the pork loin and remove.
Toss onions and jalapeno and saute until softened.
Add ginger and garlic and saute a minute or so more.
Add pork back to pan.
Add liquid to cover by about 3/4.

Bring to a simmer.
Cover, and place in 300 F oven for about 3 hours, flipping the loin halfway.
Remove pork from the liquid and shred with a fork (or tongs.)
Reserve.

Heat a saute pan on high, add a little oil and saute pork until browned and crispy.

For the Slaw:
1/2 Asian pear, peeled and diced
1/2 Daikon radish, peeled and diced
1 bunch Green Onion, green parts, sliced thin
1/2 tsp. Rice Wine Vinegar
Pinch of salt

Toss together and refrigerate.

Serve soup with a pile of crispy pork and some of the pear/daikon slaw.
Enjoy!

Food Democracy

2008-12-16T11:01:00.005-06:00

My attention was directed towards a petition being circulated to influence President-elect Obama's choice for Secretary of Agriculture. Make a difference, sign the petition here.

While you're being political, why not endorse the Food Declaration?

Doesn't that feel good?

Soup-be-doop.

2008-12-11T19:38:00.013-06:00

A really nice Chorizo from Spain (thank you Central Market) and a hankering for a hearty potato soup inspired this original creation. The flavors of Spain come to life in this delicious and easy recipe that's sure to be a crowd pleaser this winter.

Potato and Leek Soup with Chorizo
(Recipe serves 3-4)

1/4 link, Spanish Chorizo, diced (not the Mexican stuff, Spanish Chorizo is cured and smoked)
1/2 Leek, sliced thin
1 Yellow Onion, sliced thin
2 Russet Potatoes, peeled and diced
3 Bay Leaves
2 tsp. Pimenton (Sweet Smoked Paprika)

1/2 cup Heavy Cream
Water, Salt, Pepper as needed

In a saucepot on high, heat 1 T. of Canola Oil.
Add Chorizo and brown.

Remove Chorizo and set aside.
Add Leeks and Onions to pot, toss to coat, and lower heat.

Slowly cook Leeks and Onions, stirring occasionally over low heat until they start to caramelize.

Remove from heat, add Pimenton. Cover and let sit for about 5 minutes. This is called 'blooming' the Pimenton.

Add potatoes, Bay leaves and enough water to cover and bring to a simmer.

Simmer until potatoes are soft.
Strain vegetables and reserve liquid.
Remove Bay leaves.
Puree (blender works best) vegetables with a little of the cooking liquid.
Transfer back to a pot.

Adjust consistency with reserved cooking liquid.
Over low heat, whisk in the cream and season to taste.
Garnish with the browned Chorizo, grilled bread and a nice Spanish cheese like Iberico or Manchego.

Enjoy!

Friday Night Feast

2008-12-05T17:13:00.011-06:00

While browsing the meat case at Wheatsville, I happened upon a unique and interesting ingredient. Oxtail. Oxtail?

Thank you Niman Ranch. Traditionally used in soups or stews, this delicious ingredient just screams for a slow-and-low, moist-cooking method. In that spirit, here's my take on a winter feast for two.

Beer Braised Oxtail with Winter Vegetables, Creamy Polenta and Collard Greens
(Recipe serves 2-3)

For the Braise:
1 1/4 lbs. Oxtail
1/2 Leek, sliced
1 Parsnip, peeled and diced
1 Fennel bulb, sliced thick
1 Yellow Onion, sliced thick
2 cloves Garlic, smashed
2 tsp. Tomato Paste
1 Beer, 12 oz. (I used a Shiner Hefeweizen)
2 cups veggie stock

Wash, clean and cut the veggies.
The best way to clean leeks (in my opinion) is to cut them, and then soak in a large bowl of water. The dirt/sand falls to the bottom while the leeks float.

When you're done cleaning/cutting your vegetables you might end up with a pile of trimmings that looks something like this.

Yes, this could be compost fodder, but there's a lot of flavor here, and there's no point in wasting it.
Put the trimmings in a pot, cover with water, and simmer for about 45 minutes to an hour.

Strain and reserve. Voila! Vegetable stock.

Season the oxtail with salt and pepper.
In a hot Dutch Oven (or large Saucepot, etc.), sear the Oxtail on all sides in Canola Oil.

Remove.
Add the veggies.

Add 1 tsp. of the tomato paste. Stir to coat, and let veggies continue to caramelize.
Deglaze with a little of the beer. (This is a French method called 'pincer' that adds a nice depth of flavor and aids in the caramelization of the vegetables.)

Replace the Oxtail in the pan, pushing them to the bottom.

For the Bouquet:
4 Bay leaves
1 sprig, Rosemary
2 sprigs, Thyme
5 Peppercorns
1/2 tsp. Corriander seed
1/2 tsp. Fennel seed
2 Cloves

Wrap in cheesecloth.

Add the Bouquet, garlic, beer and vegetable stock until the Oxtail are about 3/4 covered.

Cover and cook in a 300 F oven for about 3 hours. Keep an eye on the liquid level.

Remove Oxtail, and separate meat from the bones. Reserve.
Strain braising liquid, pass through cheesecloth and reduce in a new pan for your sauce. Season to taste.

Serve Oxtail meat with veggies and the braising liquid sauce.

For the Polenta:
(Recipe serves 6-8)
2 T. Butter
1 1/2 cups Polenta, coarse grind
1 cup Milk
1 cup, White Wine
2 cups, stock
1/2 cup Parmiggiano, grated

In a hot pan, melt butter.
Add Polenta, and toss to coat. Toast Polenta lightly (no color.)
Add liquids, and stir occasionally until desired creamy texture is achieved.
Off the heat, stir in the Parmiggiano.
Season to taste and serve.

For the Greens:
(Recipe serves 3-4)
1 bunch (16 leaves) Collard Greens, cleaned, stems removed, sliced
6 strips, Bacon, cut into strips
2 quarts water/stock/wine
1 cloves Garlic, smashed
1 tsp. Red Pepper Flakes

Wash the greens thoroughly.
Remove the stems from the greens. I cut a V on each side of the stems.

Stack the greens, and cut into 1/2" strips.

In a sauce pot, simmer (covered) 2 quarts of liquid (water, wine, stock) with the bacon and garlic for about 30 minutes.
Add greens and red pepper flakes, simmer until desired tenderness is reached.
Season to taste.
Remove garlic and strain liquid.
Serve.

Keep that Edge

2008-11-28T11:24:00.006-06:00

Plowing through all of that Turkey Day prep probably leaves you with sore hands and a sense that maybe, just maybe, those knives you've had for years could use a good sharpening. While I'm sure a good portion of cooks have invested in a nice set of knives, the average set of home knives, while awe-inspiring in its multitude of different blades and sizes, don't hold and edge and simply can't cut it anymore. Without rushing out and buying a hugely expensive new set, here are a few tips and tricks of the trade to achieve and maintain a cutting edge worthy of your hard work.

Honing:

That long metal rod in the middle of your block isn't for chasing away grazers from the kitchen, it's a honing rod, and it's a good idea to use it before every cutting session. Don't confuse honing with sharpening, a honing rod simply eliminates slight imperfections in the cutting edge and keeps the blade of your knife balanced and straight.

Cooking Enthusiast has a great illustrated guide to proper technique.

Diamond Steel:

Similar in look to a honing rod, the diamond steel (easy to find at restaurant supply stores or on the internet) can provide quick sharpening and is a very handy and useful tool to have on your side. Use the same technique as you would with a honing rod, but don't get over zealous, diamond steels can be harmful to a blade if overused.

Sharpening:
Nothing, of course, can be more beneficial and produce better results than sharpening. While sharpening can be done for yourself, I would recommend locating a local business that provides the service for you, and sometimes they'll even come to you. Also, several knife companies offer lifetime sharpening for your knives, all it costs you is shipping. Relatively inexpensive and not particularly time consuming, your knives and your hand will thank you.

The Newspaper Trick:
After a quick honing and before you get started cutting away, nothing kicks your edge into gear like this little gem. As you use a knife, and especially when you hone/steel the blade, tiny little metal particles collect along the edge and get in the way of that razor sharp edge. Much like a barber runs his blade over a leather strap, a slightly moist piece of newspaper can provide similar results for your cutlery.

Place one sheet of slightly moistened newspaper on a flat surface (cutting board preferably.)
Hold your knife with the blade against the newspaper, and pull along the length of the blade, keeping it in contact with the paper.

Flip the knife and repeat.

A couple of passes should do, and it will leave your blade particle free and ready to slice and dice.

Storage and Handling:
The above tips can keep your cutlery sharp and straight, but most knife damage and wear results from improper storage and handling.

-Always store your knives in a block, magnetic wall strip or in some kind of protective sheath.
-Never use knives on surfaces like glass, metal, or tile. Wood and food plastics are best.
-Always wash and dry knives after each use. Hot water promotes quicker drying.

While knife care can be intimidating, utilize these tips and tricks to extend the life and usefulness of your knife, and make your cooking much more painless. More cuts result from dull knives, so keep those edges sharp and treat your knives with the respect they deserve. Your food will thank you.

Breakfast of Champions

2008-11-20T11:04:00.004-06:00

While I usually keep my breakfast simple and light, occasionally I splurge and really go for the gusto for the most important meal of the day. One of, if not my favorite morning meal treats has to be crepes. Crepes do have a bit of mystique and have been known to frustrate many a cook, but with the right technique they can be easy, very rewarding, and always delicious. This recipe could be breakfast and even dessert, but don't overlook crepes' role on the savory side of cooking either. With a few minor adjustments to recipe, they can be a great addition to any meal.

Goat Cheese Crepes with Spiced Orange Syrup
(Recipe makes 6-8 small crepes)

3.5 oz. Cake Flour (AP works as well, but Cake flour yields a more tender product, less gluten)
1 cup Milk
1/4 cup Heavy Cream
1 egg
1 T. Sugar
Pinch, Salt

Combine wet ingredients (milk, cream, egg) and whisk to combine.
Sift dry ingredients together (flour, salt, sugar) and add to wet.
Stir until moist. Do not over-mix, there may be lumps, leave them alone.
Let the batter rest, refrigerated for 15 minutes. This allows the flour to hydrate, and will provide the best texture.
Remove from the refrigerator, whisk briefly until smooth, and your batter is done.

For the Filling:
2 oz. Goat Cheese
1 T. Confectioner's Sugar
1 T. Heavy Cream

Whisk the ingredients together until smooth and combined.

For the Syrup:
1 cup Orange Juice
1/2 cup Sugar
1 stick, Cinnamon
2 Cloves
2 Star Anise pods
5 Allspice Berries
5 Peppercorns

Heat the juice and the sugar to a simmer, whisking to dissolve.
Add in the spices.
Reduce to a light syrup.
Strain out the spices.

Assembly:
The trick to making crepes successful and easy is all in the technique. The most important tool you'll need is a very good non-stick pan. The size isn't that important, but the quality of the non-stick surface is. An old worn pan will definitely not do. Yes they sell crepe specific pans, but there's no need to rush out and buy one, a simple non-stick skillet will do just fine.

To get started, heat the skillet on a medium setting.
Pour (or ladle, for consistency) about 3-4 oz. of batter into the middle of the pan.
Immediately rotate the pan to spread the batter, and continue doing so until you have a nice, even coating of batter that covers the entire base of the pan.

Using a spatula, push down the thin edges around the outside of the crepe to form a uniform shape, and make it easier to flip when ready.
Unless you're quite handy with a pan, I'd recommend using the spatula/your hands to check and subsequently flip the crepe when the first side is browned.

Continue to cook until both side are brown.
Set cooked crepe on parchment/paper towels and brush the top side with butter/oil.
Repeat and stack those crepes.
They keep quite nicely in a warm oven.

When you're done cooking, it's time to fill and roll (and yes, eat!)
Spread about a tablespoon of the filling on your crepe.

Roll the crepe, and gently apply pressure as you roll to distribute the filling throughout.

Serve with the spiced orange syrup and a dusting of confectioner's sugar to make it extra fancy.
Most importantly, enjoy!

Vote!

2008-11-19T16:36:00.002-06:00

My tortilla soup recipe has been selected as one of the finalists in the MarxFoods Comfort Food Recipe Contest, and they're deciding the winner by popular vote. Head on over there and vote (for me presumably) and I assure you the gift certificate will go to good use!

As Cheesy as I Wanna Be

2008-11-14T20:32:00.002-06:00

While most people are content to get their mac 'n cheese fix from a box (I admit, there are times when it's easier) there's really no comparison to homemade macaroni and cheese. It's easy, delicious, and completely open to creativity. There are a plethora of cheeses and flavors you can incorporate into this classic, and once you understand the basic technique, the possibilities are limitless.

The basis for good macaroni and cheese is a good cheese sauce (or Sauce Mornay). Constructing the Mornay requires first making a Bechamel (a white sauce made by thickening milk or cream with a Roux,) one of the French 'Mother Sauces' that's a very handy and quite useful technique to have in your repertoire.

Three Cheese Macaroni
(Recipe serves 3-4)

2 T. Butter
2 T. Flour

1 1/2 cups milk (skim, whole, 2%, whatever you'd like)
1 Bay leaf
5 Peppercorns
2 cloves
1 clove Garlic, smashed
2 sprigs Thyme

2 cups Cheese, shredded (I used a combination of Fontina, Sharp Cheddar and Parmigiano)
1 tsp. Dried Mustard
1/4 tsp. grated Nutmeg
Salt and Pepper as needed

1 cup dried Macaroni

Melt butter in a pan.
Add flour, and stir until incorporated. This should result in an off-white paste.
This is your Roux.
Remove from pan and set aside to cool.

Add bay leaf, thyme, cloves, peppercorns, garlic and milk to a saucepan.
Bring just to a boil and remove from heat.
Let steep for about 15 minutes.

Remove spices/herbs and bring milk back to a simmer.
Whisk in the Roux, adding a teaspoon at a time until sauce is thickened (should just coat the back of a spoon.)
Simmer, stirring, until flour taste is gone.
This is your Bechamel.

Strain the sauce (to remove any lumps).
Add dried mustard and nutmeg.
Off of the heat (very important to prevent cheese from getting stringy) gradually add the cheese, stirring until incorporated. Take the pan off and on the heat until the cheese is melted.
This is your Mornay.
Adjust seasoning as needed.

In a pot of salted (like the sea!), boiling water, cook the macaroni until al dente.
Strain and add Mornay to coat.
Toss.

For the topping:
2 strips Bacon, cooked, chopped roughly
2 sprigs Thyme, picked
1/4 cup bread crumbs (make your own!)

Combine all in a food processor and pulse until mixed.

Add macaroni and cheese to bowls, ramekins, casserole, etc. (as long as they are oven safe) and top with the breadcrumb mixture.

Pop under the broiler for a minute or two to brown the topping.
Serve and enjoy!

Homemade is Best

2008-11-14T20:31:00.002-06:00

Why buy something like breadcrumbs when making your own is easy and full of infinite creative possibilities? Good question, I say. If you eat bread, and I bet you do, then I'm sure you're left with scraps or end pieces that you otherwise discard. Don't! Save them, freeze them, and when you've got enough, you can make your very own breadcrumbs.

Homemade Breadcrumbs
(Recipe makes 1 cup)

2 cups bread scraps

Set scraps out on the counter for a day or so, until they're dry.
-
or
-
On a sheet tray, toast scraps in a very very low oven (175 F) for an hour or so, until the scraps are thoroughly dry.

Remove from the oven, combine with any number of things (herbs, cheeses, spices) and pulse in a food processor until the desired texture.
Crumbs will store in an airtight container for a month or so. (Crumbs with cheese and other perishable products should be used immediately or refrigerated.)

Divine Swine

2008-11-14T16:33:00.005-06:00

There are a lot of ways to cook bacon, most of which result in burnt or soggy and otherwise unappetizing slabs of swine. Here is my favorite, and as far as I'm concerned, the only method.

Place metal racks on a sheet tray.
Spray the racks.
Arrange bacon on the racks, making sure to leave space between pieces.

Place the tray(s) in a cold oven.
Turn oven to 400 F.
Once oven preheats, check in on your bacon every two minutes or so. Careful, do not neglect your pork, as it can and will go from perfect to inedible quite quickly.

This method will get you crispy, perfectly cooked strips of bacon with no shrinking or curling every time. Plus you still get to save that precious bacon grease that drips down onto the sheet tray.

If it ain't broke...

2008-11-07T14:56:00.006-06:00

...don't fix it. But you certainly can modify it a bit. This was my mantra today, as I took my favorite cookie recipe and gave it a twist. A delicious, dark chocolate twist.

Dark Chocolate Snickerdoodles
(Recipe makes 15 medium sized cookies)

1/4 cup Butter, softened
1/4 cup Shortening
1/2 cup Sugar
1/4 cup Brown Sugar
1 Egg
1 tsp. Vanilla Extract
1 oz. Dark Chocolate (semi-sweet)
8 oz. AP Flour
1/2 tsp. Cream of Tartar
1/2 tsp. Baking Soda
Pinch Salt
Cinnamon Mixture (2 T. Sugar, 1 tsp. Cinnamon)

Cream the butter, shortening and sugar together until smooth.
Add the egg and vanilla and mix until incorporated.
In a double-boiler, melt the chocolate.
Add the chocolate to the butter/egg mixture and mix until incorporated.
Sift together the flour, salt, baking soda and cream of tartar.
Gradually add the dry ingredients to the others, mixing until combined.
Let dough rest about 10 minutes, refrigerated so flour can hydrate.

Form dough into 1" (diameter) balls.
Roll dough in cinnamon mixture to coat.
Flatten balls and place on a greased sheet tray.

Bake at 400 F for 8 minutes.
Remove immediately from the tray to a wire rack to cool.

Enjoy!

Note: The original Snickerdoodle recipe I use is Mrs. Sigg's found on AllRecipes.com.

Comfort never paid so well...

2008-11-03T22:08:00.007-06:00

Heads up on yet another rewarding recipe contest over at Marx Foods. Nothing fancy here, just your favorite/best comfort food recipes. I've submitted my tortilla soup recipe (see below), and I recommend you head on over there and submit your own. A $250 gift certificate can get a lot of goodies!

Comfort Enhanced

2008-10-31T19:04:00.006-05:00

There's no greater comfort food to me than Tortilla Soup. Growing up in Texas and having a life-long love affair with Southwestern cooking definitely makes these flavors speak to my soul. When the weather gets a little cold, there's hardly a substitute for the belly-filling, warming deliciousness of a hearty bowl with all the necessary accoutrement. This recipe takes Mom's version and deepens the flavors to a whole new level. Enjoy!

Tortilla Soup
(Recipe serves 8-10)

1 Whole Chicken
2 Large Onions, medium dice
3 Carrots, medium dice
6 Stalks Celery, medium dice
2 Cloves Garlic, smashed
3 Ears Corn, kernels removed, save cobs
1 T. Tomato Paste
2 tsp. Cumin Seed
5 Black Peppercorns
3 Bay Leaves
5 Springs Thyme
5 Chipotle Peppers
4 Dried Guajillo Chiles, cover in warm water and let sit for about an hour, remove stems/seeds
2 14.5 oz. Cans Diced Tomatoes, drain liquid, reserve
8 oz. Green Chiles

As Needed - Salt
As Needed - Ancho Chile Powder
As Needed - Cayenne Pepper

16 Corn Tortillas

Diced Avocado
Lime Wedges
Chopped Cilantro
Shredded Cheese (whatever you like)

Cut 12 of the tortillas into thin strips. Place on a sprayed sheet tray.
Bake tortilla strips and 4 whole tortillas at 350 F until crispy.
Set aside to cool.

Heat a dutch oven/large stock pot. Add oil.
Season chicken with salt.
Sear all sides of the chicken and remove.
Add onions, celery and carrots and sweat.
Add garlic.
Add tomato paste and stir until veggies are coated.
Add bay, thyme, cumin seeds and peppercorns.
Remove from heat.

In a separate pot, cover chicken with water, and bring to a boil.
Remove from heat.
Remove chicken and pour off water.

Add chicken to pot with veggies.
Add reserved corn cobs.

Cover with water and return to heat.
Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.
Cook for about 2 hours, uncovered.
Skim off fat/foam when necessary.

Remove chicken and set aside to cool. Remove skin and shred. Set aside.
Discard corn cobs.
Strain remainder through cheesecloth into another pot.
Remove thyme, bay leaves and discard.

Puree Chipotles, toasted tortillas (4), Guajillo chiles, onions/carrots/celery/garlic from stock with reserved tomato liquid (and a little of the stock if necessary).
Push through a strainer with a ladle.

Whisk puree into the stock, and bring to a simmer.

Add corn, tomatoes and green chiles and shredded chicken.
Adjust seasoning with salt, Ancho chile powder and Cayenne pepper.

Garnish with tortilla strips, diced avocado, shredded cheese, chopped cilantro and lime wedges.

This soup does freeze well, so if you don't plan on using it all, throw it into a bag/container and freeze for up to two months.

A Lotta Foccacia

2008-10-24T20:09:00.011-05:00

There's nothing quite like fresh baked bread. The smell that fills the house, that first delectable bite- It's certainly something special. Today I decided to indulge my bread-a-holic nature and make one of my favorites. Foccacia. This Italian crowd-pleaser is not only easy, but rewarding, versatile and of course, delicious.

Parmigiano-Herb Foccacia
(Recipe makes 2 loaves)

12 oz. Warm Water (110 to 115 degrees F)
1 package active dried yeast
3/4 tsp. Sugar
1 oz. Olive Oil

18 oz. Bread Flour
1 1/4 tsp. Salt
4 T. Finely Chopped Herbs (Thyme, Rosemary and Oregano are my favorites, reserve about 1 T. for topping)
1/4 cup Parmigiano, finely grated
AN Sea Salt
AN Flour for working dough

Combine warm water, olive oil, sugar and yeast.
Stir to dissolve.
Let sit for about 5-10 minutes until yeast activates, creating bubbles/foam.

Combine flour, herbs, salt in mixer bowl/food processor with dough blade.
Add yeast mixture to flour mixture and mix/knead until dough is tacky, and gluten develops. (8-10 minutes)
Divide dough in half. (I usually wrap and freeze the second half and save it for homemade pizza. This recipe makes the best pizza dough, hands down.)
Ball dough up and place in oil/sprayed bowl.

Cover with plastic or a damp towel and let sit in a warm, humid place until the dough doubles in size. (I like to use a warm oven, door cracked, with a pan of water on the bottom shelf as a speed-proofer for the dough.)

When the dough is doubled in size, and a finger pressed into the dough leaves a divot that does not spring back, remove dough from bowl and punch down.

Roll dough out, rotating 1/4 turns each time until reasonably flat and most air bubbles have popped. Place on an oiled sheet tray, and let sit about 10 more minutes for a secondary rise.

Brush with olive oil, top with sea salt, reserved herbs and the shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Bake at 375 F for about 20 minutes, rotating halfway.
Remove from oven and let cool on a rack.

Foccacia is great eaten by itself, or it can be used for sandwiches, or my favorite, as a pizza dough.

Local Motion

2008-10-24T20:02:00.004-05:00

In my quest to find anything and everything culinary and local, I made a very interesting discovery. Texas Olive Oil. And not just any olives, my personal favorite Arbequina olives of Spanish fame. Produced north of Laredo in Carrizo Springs, this cold pressed extra virgin oil is not only Texan, but decidedly delicious. Comparing a Spanish Arbequina oil and the Texas version, the difference is really quite negligible. Both have a nice smooth flavor with a peppery finish. It's good to be Texan, very good.

The Proof is in This Pudding

2008-10-16T18:56:00.013-05:00

Bread Pudding that is. Our first chilly day here in Austin and a surplus of bread scraps inspired one of my favorite deserts, with a twist. We're talking Peanut Butter/Chocolate Bread Pudding. Just typing it makes me salivate, so off we go!

Peanut Butter/Chocolate Bread Pudding
(Recipe Serves 6-8)

For the Custard:

6 oz. Whole Milk
6 oz. Heavy Cream
4 oz. Sugar
1/4 tsp. Vanilla Extract
4 oz. Creamy Peanut Butter

4 egg yolks
4 oz. Sugar

Combine milk, cream, vanilla extract and sugar in a saucepot and bring just to a boil.
Remove from heat.
Add hot milk/cream mixture and peanut butter to blender and blend until smooth.
Beat egg yolks and sugar until creamy, lighter in color, and doubled in volume.
Temper the egg mixture with a little of the milk/cream mixture.
Add the tempered egg mixture to the milk/cream mixture.
Strain, and cool.

For the Pudding:

10 oz. Bread, cubed (I used scraps from Baguettes and Ciabatta)
3 oz. Butter, melted
4 oz. Semi-sweet Chocolate Chips

Toss bread with melted butter in a large bowl to coat.
Let cool.
Add 1/2 of the custard to the bread, and toss.
Refrigerate and let the bread absorb the custard.
Add the remaining half of the custard, toss.
Refrigerate and let the bread absorb the remainder.
Toss with chocolate chips.
Butter(oil) a loaf pan, and cover the bottom with parchment paper.
Add bread/custard mixture to the pan, and refrigerate until ready to cook.

Bake at 375 F for 45 minutes to 1 hour until custard is set. You might consider using a water bath to provide even cooking, generally a good idea with custards.

Serve warm with caramel/chocolate sauce or whipped cream.

A Chef for All Seasons

2008-10-09T17:39:00.018-05:00

Our recent change(ish) in the weather and the impending arrival of my favorite time of year really gets my culinary juices flowing. Braises, stews, and soups, oh my! Most of my favorite foods to prepare and more importantly to eat are considered cold-weather foods, and the arrival of Fall here in Austin has inspired my first braise of the year.

Lamb and Beef Ragout with Rosemary Papardelle
(Recipe yields 6-8 servings)

For the Braise:

8 oz. Bacon, cut into lardons (matchsticks)
1/2 lb. Beef stew meat (I used local Bastrop beef, mmm, grass-fed)
1/2 lb. Lamb shoulder/leg (Loncito's from nearby Dinero, TX has wonderful organic lamb products)

1/2 Onion, sliced
1/2 Leek, washed and julienned
2 Jalapenos, cut in half and julienned
1/2 can (14 oz.) San Marzano tomatoes, medium dice (reserve liquid)
6 Kalamata olives, pitted and sliced
1/2 Roasted red bell pepper, julienned
1/2 head Napa Cabbage, julienned
6-8 Thyme sprigs, picked (reserve some for garnish)

1 cup red wine
1 cup stock (or water)

AN flour, salt, pepper

Bouquet Garni: (fancy French term for ingredients tied in cheesecloth so they can be removed easily after cooking.)

5 black peppercorns
2-3 Bay leaves
2-3 Star Anise
2-3 cloves
1 tsp. Cumin seeds
any bones you might have encountered in the beef/lamb

Tie in cheesecloth and set aside.

In a Dutch Oven (the only tool for a good braise in my opinion) or a large saucepot, crisp bacon over medium-low heat and remove to dry. Set aside for garnish.
Increase heat to high.
Toss beef and lamb in enough flour to coat lightly, season with salt and pepper. Brown both side of the meat in the bacon fat, and remove.
Deglaze the pan with 1 T. of red wine, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon.
Add onions, leeks and jalapenos. Sweat until veggies are soft.
Deglaze again with another 1 T. of red wine, scraping the bottom.
Add tomatoes (with reserved juice), bell peppers, olives, cabbage, thyme, browned meat(s), wine, stock and Bouquet back to the pan. There should be just enough liquid to cover.
Bring back to a simmer, then cover and place in a 350 F oven for about 4 hours, until meat falls apart.
Remove Bouquet and serve.

For the Rosemary Papardelle:
(Recipe yields about 4-5 servings)

2 oz. (by weight) AP Flour
2 oz. (by weight) Semolina Flour
2 Eggs
2 tsp. Olive Oil
2 tsp. Salt
1/4 cup to 3/4 cup Water
2-3 sprigs Rosemary, picked and chopped finely

AN 50/50 mix of AP and Semolina flours (called 'bench flour' for kneading/rolling/etc.)

Pasta Machine or Pasta Attachment for Stand Mixer (yes, it's really the only way to make pasta at home.)

Combine AP and Semolina flour, rosemary and salt in a large bowl (or on your counter-top), make a well in the center.
Add eggs, oil and a little water to the well.
Beating the eggs with a fork, gradually incorporate flour until a loose dough forms. You may or may not have to add water as you go, depending on the eggs.
When the dough pulls together into a shaggy mass, remove from the bowl and begin to knead on a floured surface.
Knead until the dough is smooth, a little tacky, and elastic. (It could take awhile if you don't have Popeye forearms, be patient).
Set dough aside, covered loosely with plastic, and let rest for about 30 minutes.
Divide dough into fourths. (I like to wrap what I'm not going to use in plastic, place into a plastic bag, and freeze for up to two months.)
Shape dough into a rough rectangle, and put through the largest opening on your pasta machine.
Remove the dough, fold (in thirds, like folding a letter for an envelope) back onto itself. Rotate and put back through largest opening of machine. Repeat this step 2-3 times.
Let dough rest 5 minutes.
Run dough through progressively smaller settings on the machine, resting every couple of settings or so for 5 minutes, until you get to the second smallest.
Cut dough into long rectangles, trimming loose edges, and refrigerate on a floured sheet tray until ready to cut/cook.

Roll rectangles up, and then cut into 1/2" pieces.

Toss noodles in a little flour to prevent sticking.

Cook noodles in ample boiling, salted (like the sea!) water until al dente. Fresh pasta cooks very fast, so be aware. It should only take a couple of minutes at most.

Plating:

Remove pasta from water, and toss with the Ragout and sauteed mushrooms (I used King Trumpets).
Plate and serve with fresh thyme, bacon, grated Parmesan, and a couple of thick pieces of toasted bread (I like Ciabatta) to soak up all the goodness.

Go Texan or Go Home

2008-09-28T10:47:00.003-05:00

The Texas Department of Agriculture is sponsoring a GO TEXAN Restaurant Round-up this coming Wednesday, October the 1st, with participating restaurants offering local ingredients and wines, with a portion (sometimes all) of the proceeds going to help the local food bank(s).

I encourage anyone interested in promoting a return to the good old days of eating locally, seasonally and most importantly responsibly to give it a look. A list of the participating central Texas eateries can be found here.

More information about the GO TEXAN Restaurant program can be found here.

Chanterelle Mushroom Recipe Contest

2008-09-05T12:04:00.003-05:00

Heads up, another recipe contest with a great and edible prize is underway at Marx Foods. Simply submit a recipe featuring Chanterelle Mushrooms and you could win 2 pounds of fresh Chanterelles delivered to your door. The contest runs through Friday September 19th so don't delay.

It's Pretty Easy Being Green

2008-08-24T11:23:00.008-05:00

Salsa Verde that is. A wonderfully fresh and rich sauce than can compliment any number of dishes from pastas or salads to enchiladas and tacos. There's almost nothing I enjoy more on one of our sweltering Texas summer afternoons than fish tacos and an ice cold beer. Easy on the budget, healthy, and a great way to utilize salsa verde.

Fish Tacos with Salsa Verde, Mango-Corn Relish, and Queso Fresco

Salsa Verde:
2 tomatillos, husked and roasted (Green Chiles are a viable alternative for this recipe, or even try using both)
1 habanero, roasted then seeded
1/2 avocado, peeled and pitted
2 T. sour cream
1/2 cup cilantro
2 limes, juiced
Salt

Roast tomatillos and peppers (I like heat, I used a habanero, you could use serranos or jalapenos if you prefer) until skins are discolored. Remove seeds from pepper (or leave if you want more heat.)
Combine the remaining ingredients with the tomatillos/peppers in your blender and puree.

Mango-Corn Relish:
1 mango, peeled, small dice
1 medium red bell pepper, small dice
1/2 cup frozen corn, thawed
1/2 avocado, peeled, pitted, small dice
1/2 lime, juiced
Salt

Combine all the ingredients, toss to coat and check seasoning.

Tacos:
1 lb. snapper (or whatever fish fits your fancy,) skinned and diced
1 medium onion, small dice
Canola oil (as needed)
Salt and Pepper

Heat skillet then add oil. Saute onions briefly, then add fish. Season.
When fish is cooked, add salsa verde to skillet and toss to coat.
Remove from heat.

Plate with fresh corn or flour tortillas, mango-corn relish, queso fresco and lime wedges. Enjoy!

Fun with Foam

2008-06-16T11:30:00.007-05:00

With a basket of soon to be past their prime apricots, and a desire to try my hand at incorporating a foam into a dish, this creation was the result:

Habanero-Apricot Glazed Pork Tenderloin with a Honey Balsamic Foam, Three Chile Cheese Potatoes, and Haricots Verts

Glaze:
6-7 Apricots, halved, pits removed
1 cup simple syrup (equal parts water and sugar)
1 habanero, split
1 tsp. salt

Puree apricots with simple syrup until smooth.
Simmer liquid with habanero until reduced by about 3/4 (glaze consistency.)
Remove habanero and season. Reserve.

18 oz. Pork Tenderloin, trimmed of fat/silver skin.
Season with salt and pepper.
Sear all sides until golden brown.
Brush with glaze, and roast at 350 F on a rack until medium (internal temp of 150-160.)
Remove from oven, brush with more glaze and let rest, covered, about 10 minutes.
Slice.

Foam:
1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar
2 T. honey
2 T. water
1 tsp. mustard powder
2 g. soy lecithin

Combine all with immersion blender and froth. Spoon foam from the top and serve.

Potatoes:
2 large russet potatoes, peeled
1 anaheim, 1 poblano, 1 new mexico chile
1/4 cup colby cheese, grated
1 T. butter
1/4 cup heavy cream
canola oil, as needed
salt and pepper as needed

Rub chiles in oil, roast at 400 F for about 10 minutes (until skin is black and bubbly.)
Remove, cover with plastic, and let cool.
Remove skin and seeds/stems, dice.

Cook potatoes until soft. Run through ricer (smoother texture, can be mashed if desired.)
Combine riced potatoes, butter, cream, cheese, and chiles (off the heat) and stir to combine.
Season and serve.

Haricots Verts:
2 large hand-fulls Haricots Verts (about 12 oz. or two servings)
1 T. butter
Salt and Pepper as needed

Remove stem ends.
Blanch in boiling water for about 3 minutes.
Shock in an ice bath (to stop cooking.)
Saute in butter.
Season and serve.

The result is a fabulous and well-balanced meal, and if I may say so, my new personal favorite pork tenderloin preparation. The main point of this exercise was to experiment with the use of foams as a sauce, and I think in this application it worked well. The foam had a very strong flavor, with nice sweetness to complement the glaze, and some acidity to balance. If you were to use the same sauce in another, heavier form, the flavors would be too much and might overwhelm the pork and the glaze, so the lightness of a foam in this dish made it, undoubtedly, an asset.

Cooking Demonstration

2008-06-05T11:55:00.003-05:00

This past Saturday at the beautiful Lake Austin Spa and Resort, I had the opportunity to conduct my first (hopefully not my last) cooking demonstration for the guests at the resort. The prospect of being the center of attention and explaining myself verbally while cooking was a little daunting, but all went well and I'm pleased to say it was a success.

The most challenging aspect of a cooking demo, from a chef's perspective, is that cooking for service and cooking for a demo are quite different animals. Dinner service is a hectic, exhausting and exhilarating span of several hours with few questions, and certainly no explanation required. Demonstration cooking is quite the opposite. The pace is much slower, the questions are endless, and every action requires thoughtful illumination. While many cooks prefer the back of the house for its limited interactivity with guests, demonstration cooking requires, at least temporarily, a modicum of sociability and even some charm and humor. Considering the current trend in our industry of chefs as brands and even empires, the cooking demonstration is a requisite skill for anyone who dreams of their 'own place.'

Given a relatively short time period, 45 minutes, I went with two light, summer dishes that, in my mind at least, are easily executable by the home cook.

Guatemalan Style Apples

4-5 apples, cored and sliced (Braeburn, Gala, or Cameo work best)
2 T. lime juice
As Needed, ground Black Pepper

Toss apples in lime juice.
Arrange on a platter/plate to serve.
Top with ground black pepper.

Seared Tuna with Asian Salad and Ponzu Tapioca ‘Faux Caviar’

Seared Tuna:
2 8-ounce Tuna steaks, about an inch think
2 T. grapeseed oil (or canola)
Salt and Pepper as needed

Heat a pan (smoking hot.)
Add oil.
Season one side of Tuna with salt and pepper.
Sear Tuna steaks on one side for about 45 seconds to a minute (season other side.)
Flip and sear 45 seconds to a minute.
Sear end sides about 30 seconds.
Remove from pan and let rest.
Slice thin.

Dressing:
1 T. soy sauce
¼ cup rice wine vinegar
¼ cup rice wine
1 tsp. sesame oil
1 tsp. chili oil

Whisk together.

Salad:
2 large carrots, julienned
1 daikon radish, julienned (or 6-8 red radishes)
4 heads baby bok choy, stems removed, sliced
1 asian pear (or bosc) peeled and julienned
2 T. chopped cilantro

Toss together with dressing.

Ponzu sauce:
½ cup soy sauce
½ cup grapefruit juice
1 T. lime juice
1 T. honey

Tapioca Caviar:
½ cup Tapioca pearls (small or large)
2 quarts boiling water

Cook tapioca in water until only the middle is translucent.
Remove and rinse with cold water.
Soak tapioca in Ponzu sauce for 2 hours (more is fine).
Drain.

Serve seared tuna shingled atop the dressed salad and finish with the faux caviar.

Day Trippin'

2008-05-29T21:47:00.007-05:00

Today I decided to take a trip to my local Asian supermarket (something I'd meant to do for some time now,) and I certainly was pleasantly surprised. What awaited me was a plethora of 'authentic Chinese, Indonesian, Japanese, Korean, Filipino, and Vietnamese products' of whom I am generally quite fond, as Asian cooking and ingredients have a special place in my heart.

While wandering the aisles for what seemed like hours (actually, it was hours) I found a wonderful selection of grocery list items that my usual HEB trips had failed to deliver. The oh-so -hard-to-find large tapioca pearls (giant 'faux caviar', beware,) shiro miso, lotus root, palm sugar, Chayote, curries and so much more leapt from the shelves into my basket.

Most notably, MT Supermarket has a fish and meat section to be reckoned with. The entire back wall of a gigantic store was packed with a wondrous selection of fresh fish and seafood, topped off by several large tanks full of live, swimming fish, as well what might be the largest pork selection ever (go figure.)

One item in particular caught my eye, and inspired this delicious and beautiful Thai recipe. Fresh, not frozen, head-on, prawns. Not really big shrimp, actual honest-to-gosh prawns (note the pincers.)

Grilled Prawns with Red Curry Vermicelli

1/2 lb. Prawns, heads removed, peeled (reserve heads)
1 T. red curry paste
1/2 cup coconut milk
1/4 cup Thai Basil, chiffonade
2 oz. Vermicelli (rice noodles)

Skewer the Prawn tails (head end down) to keep straight while cooking.
Season with salt, pepper and olive oil. Grill about 1-2 minutes a side.

Squeeze the 'goodness' out of the reserved Prawn heads.
Combine curry paste, coconut milk and the 'goodness.'
Bring to a simmer and whisk to dissolve.

Soak the vermicelli in water for about 5 minutes.
Cook in boiling water for another 5 minutes.
Drain. Toss with 1 T. curry and the basil.

Garnish:
1 Basil leaf
Lotus Root, peeled and sliced thin (about 1/8")
1 reserved Prawn head

Fry the basil leaf, lotus chips, and the Prawn head until crispy and golden.

Plate with more curry and enjoy.

All in all it was a wonderful dish, and it left me wishing I had bought about 15 more. These Prawns were like mini-lobsters, and had a similar flavor and sweet succulent ocean goodness. Grilling them lightly preserves that flavor and texture, and leaving the curry on the side allows you to regulate the heat level to your liking.

My New Favorite Salad

2008-05-29T21:32:00.004-05:00

With my new toy arriving from Kerekes, I decided to take a few vegetables for a turn, and this salad was the glorious and delicious result.

Roasted Golden Beet, Carrot and Fennel Salad:

2 carrots, sliced
2 golden beets, roasted, sliced
1 fennel bulb, sliced thin
4 strips bacon, cooked and diced (reserve fat)
1/4 avocado, sliced thin
1/4 cup Basil, chiffonade
1 egg, poached
1 slice Ciabatta topped with Idiazabal cheese, toasted

Dressing:
Reserved bacon fat
1/4 cup white balsamic
1 T. honey
salt and pepper as needed

Whisk to combine.

Toss carrots, beets, fennel, bacon, and basil with dressing.
Top with poached egg, avocado, and a chiffonade of basil.
Serve with cheese toast.

The crunch from the vegetables and the bacon matched with the smoothness of the egg and the avocado created a lovely textural contrast, and the yolk from the egg added a velvety richness. The cheese toast was a nice textural element as well as a tool to sop up all of the delicious runoff.

The Lab - Pea Ravioli

2008-05-15T15:16:00.006-05:00

For my first foray into so-called 'molecular gastronomy' I decided to try my hand at re-creating an inspirational dish from Ferran Adria, the master himself. El Bulli's Pea Ravioli are one of their signature menu items that helped propel El Bulli into 'Best Restaurant in the World' status. Off I go.

Seeing as it was my first experiment with these ingredients, I referenced the hydrocolloid recipe collection at khymos.org.

Pea Ravioli:

Settling Bath:
1500 g Cold Water
10 g Calcium Chloride (0.67%)

Combine the water and the calcium chloride. Stir to dissolve. Chill.

130 g Frozen Peas
162 g Water
3 Mint Leaves
1.5 g Sodium Alginate (0.5%)

Heat the peas in enough water to cover for about 4-5 minutes. Add mint leaves for the last minute or so. Shock in ice water bath. Strain.

Combine the sodium alginate and water, blend to mix evenly. (I found it worked best to use a tall container and add the sodium alginate to the water gradually, with the immersion blender running.)

Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly. Cool to room temperature.

Combine the peas and the room temperature sodium alginate/water. Blend until smooth.

Dip a rounded (plastic measuring) Tablespoon into the bath, then pour the pea mixture just to fill the spoon. Dip the spoon into the bath, and rotate to release the 'ravioli.'

Let sit in the bath for two minutes (longer time creates a thicker coat) and then remove to a cold water bath.

Plate and serve immediately with sea salt and a mint sprig.

It took me a few tries to get the proper technique down for making nicely rounded shapes, but the results were spectacular. I found that coating the spoon with a little of the calcium chloride bath made it much easier for the mixture to release from the spoon, and helped to ensure the rounded shape. These 'ravioli' have a wonderful texture, the coating dissolves in the mouth and leaves just the essence of peas.

The Laboratory

2008-05-13T11:50:00.004-05:00

Let the experimentation begin! I received my package from Willpowder today, and I can't wait to get into the kitchen and attempt to replicate all of the crazy things I have seen/read about. Ferran Adria and Wylie Dufresne beware.

I went for the gusto and chose three of the 'package' offers: Balls of Fury (Sodium Alginate, Calcium Chloride, Sodium Citrate, Calcium Lactate, and Calcium Lactate Gluconate), The Pantry (Lecithin, Egg White Powder, Tapioca Maltodextrin, Agar Agar, and Xanthan Gum, Honey Granules), and the Crazy for Meth (5 types of Methylcellulose.)

Stay tuned for a host of fun experiments to come.

Mother's Day/Birthday Celebration

2008-05-12T11:18:00.006-05:00

To celebrate Mother's Day as well as my birthday, the family, the girlfriend and I went to Jeffrey's here in Austin for dinner last night. We'd done the fine dining rounds for previous birthday/holiday dinners, Uchi, Wink, Zoot, Fino, Vin Bistro, but never Jeffrey's. The 'crown jewel' as it has been called had yet to be experienced. Off we went.

Although parking was a little limited, the restaurant is in a lovely part of town, and has a very nice ambiance. I could nitpick the space and the service, but I'll focus on the food, which was, good, but not great.

To start, we were offered an amuse bouche of Chilled Avocado Puree with Smoked Salmon and Cucumber. Delicious. (If not for the appetizers/soups this would have been the highlight of the meal.)

We chose three appetizers to share: Crispy Oysters on Yucca Root Chips with Habanero Honey Aïoli, Smoked Foie Gras with Vanilla Poached Pear, Pistachio Slaw & Onion Marmalade, and Wagyu Beef Carpaccio with Balsamic Dijon Sauce & Baby Mushrooms. The appetizers were fabulous. Presentation was lovely, and portions were big enough to share amongst 5 people. My favorite was the Smoked Foie (and I'm not normally a huge foie fan,) that paired well with the poached pears and onion marmalade.

Next came the soups: Chilled White Asparagus Champagne Soup with Crab and English Pea with Wild Mushroom and Asiago Cheese. The best fine dining restaurant in Austin and the Pea Soup was the consensus best dish at the table, go figure.

Finally, for the entrees, we had: Prosciutto Wrapped Salmon, Seared Peppered Tuna, Wagyu Hanger Steak, Braised Short Ribs, and Duck & Shrimp. While nothing really stood out as horrible or was sent back or spit out, nothing jumped up and grabbed our interest as we shared entrees around the table.

Now Jeffrey's can be checked off the list, and all in all, it was a good dining experience. I've had better, but I wouldn't turn down a meal from there either. Good company, good food, great dinner. Thanks to mom, dad, Kate and Jaime.

Duck & Shrimp

Balsamic Braised Short Ribs

Morel Season, oh boy!

2008-05-06T01:43:00.004-05:00

Emily from Marx Foods (a nice internet-based distributor of fresh, in-season food items) recently pointed me towards an interesting and rewarding contest they are currently hosting on their website. All it requires is your favorite mushroom-based recipe and you could win two whole glorious pounds of fresh Morel mushrooms. Here's my entry, a delicious Asian-themed risotto utilizing my personal favorite mushroom, Maitake (or Hen of the Woods.)

Maitake Mushroom Risotto:

1 lb. Maitake Mushrooms (trimmed of stems, stems reserved, broken apart gently)
Butter (as needed)

Rinse the mushrooms and dry gently. Saute gently in melted butter. Season with salt, pepper, touch of lemon juice. Set aside.

Mushroom Broth:
1 T. canola oil
1 cup leeks, sliced
1/2 cup celery, diced
1/2 cup carrot, diced
trimmed Maitake stems, rough chopped

Sweat veggies in the oil until translucent, add stems and 4 cups water. Simmer gently for about 30 minutes. Strain.

Risotto:

1 T. Olive Oil
1/4 cup minced shallots
1 cup Sushi Rice (or any other short-grain rice)
3 cups mushroom broth with 1/2 cup white wine, kept hot
1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano
Sauteed Maitake mushrooms

Sweat shallots in oil, add rice and stir until outside coating of rice is translucent.
Add broth/wine just to cover, stirring occasionally, until rice, when stirred, pulls away from the bottom of pan, then repeating until rice is al dente and creamy. Stir in sauteed mushrooms, cheese. Serve drizzled with a nice olive oil and shaved Pecorino.

Sunday Dinner

2008-05-05T01:33:00.006-05:00

In light of the fresh Halibut at my local store, and my desire to use the 'faux caviar' tapioca in practice, our Sunday dinner this week was:

- Pan Roasted Halibut with Balsamic Caviar, Crispy Polenta, Sunchoke Puree with a Roasted Beet and Fruit Salad

Halibut - marinate the filets (about 6 oz. portions, skin off) in a nice Spanish Arbequina olive oil as well as some lemon thyme. Season with salt, grains of paradise. In a hot (cast iron) pan, add olive oil, sear filets (herb side down) and then flip, and finish in the oven (firm not flaky). Rest.

Tapioca - use the technique from my previous post and soak in a mixture of 1/4 cup balsamic, 1/4 cup white balsamic, and 1 tsp. Worcestershire.

Polenta - heat a pan, add 1 Tablespoon of oil, minced garlic (1 clove) and 1/2 cup polenta. Toast about a minute. Add 2 cups water, cook until the liquid is absorbed. In a cool, oiled pan (sheet tray also works,) add the polenta, spread evenly and chill. Remove from the pan when set, cut into circles, sautee to color and crisp, finish in a 350 F oven.

Sunchoke Puree - skin and slice the (3 large) Sunchokes, simmer slowly in 1/4 cup cream, 1/4 cup milk until softened (careful not to burn.) Puree (add more cream if necessary.) Mount warm sauce with butter.

Beets - coat (2) Chiogga beets in olive oil, salt, pepper, and enclose them in foil and roast at about 350 F for an hour. Cool. Cut into squares/circles and slice thin.

Salad - dice asian pear, kiwi, pickled loquat (homemade,) and sun-dried tomatoes, and then toss them with sunflower seeds, salt, grains of paradise, and a chiffonade of Japanese mint.

Plate and enjoy!

I found the tapioca caviar added a nice acidic balance to the richness of the fish as well as the sunchoke puree, and the salad served as a nice contrast (temperature and flavor) to the fish/polenta. We paired this dinner with a really nice Fumaio (blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay) from Banfi.

Very interesting ...

2008-05-04T11:40:00.006-05:00

I just finished The Reach of a Chef, Michael Ruhlman's work exploring the current trend in the food industry towards chefs as CEOs and brands in themselves. Ruhlman uses an insider's perspective, his personal relationships with many of America's upper echelon of chefs, and his experpience as a former CIA student to delve into the evolution of the title 'chef' and what it means today. From Thomas Keller to Rachael Ray, The Reach of a Chef looks at the rise of the 'celebrity chef' and the continual transformation of the public's view of professional cooking. All in all, a good read and a must for anyone in the industry.

New Acquisition

2008-05-01T12:31:00.006-05:00

Thank you mom and dad for my newest addition to an already bustling herb garden, my very own Meyer Lemon tree. It joins lemon thyme, lavender, rosemary, oregano, sage, holy basil, japanese mint, lemongrass, jalapeno and poblano plants to create quite a formidable selection of culinary accompaniments.

Tapioca 'Faux Caviar'

2008-04-28T01:39:00.010-05:00

Inspired by a technique I recently saw (over and over) on this season's Top Chef, I decided to try a little experiment today involving a 'faux caviar' made using tapioca pearls.

To begin, I needed some uncooked tapioca pearls (not the instant stuff that usually populates grocery store shelves) and my local Sun Harvest had just the stuff.

Before treating the tapioca to an assortment of flavorful baths, I added 1/2 cup of the pearls to 2 quarts of boiling water and cooked about 25 minutes (until the pearls were mostly translucent with an opaque center.)

When the pearls reached my desired level of doneness, I transferred them to a strainer and rinsed them in cold water. Once they had drained, I took approximately 1 Tablespoon of cooked pearls and added them to 2 Tablespoons of liquid. For this experiment I decided to test soy sauce, balsamic vinegar, white balsamic vinegar, chili oil and pomegranate juice. I let the pearls soak in their respective liquids for several hours at room temperature, before draining and tasting.

All of the liquids delivered beautiful color and the pearls look amazingly like caviar. While the soy, both balsamics and chili oil were delicious, I would change the pomegranate recipe from juice to pomegranate molasses in the future to achieve a more potent, sweeter flavor that the juice did not impart, although it did give them a lovely color.

These 'faux caviar' add nice flavor, gorgeous presentation, and could be used in many applications. They hold their shape and texture quite well and could be made and stored in an airtight container and refrigerated for several days.

Clockwise from top: pomegranate juice, soy sauce, white balsamic, balsamic and chili oil (center.)

Trailer Tacos

2008-04-25T11:37:00.006-05:00

I recently had the absolute pleasure (thank you Jaime) of partaking in what is fast becoming a new Austin landmark, Torchy's Tacos. While many might be a little concerned about the quality of food coming out of an Airstream trailer, fear not. With a highly varied menu, an exquisite line of sauces and reasonable prices, it's no wonder they have expanded to four downtown locations.

As it was my first time, I decided to go for the gusto and try a few different tacos. After a quick look at the menu, I chose the Green Chili Pork, The Republican, and the Fried Avocado. While all three were in fact delicious, my new personal Favorite Taco Ever, the Fried Avocado Taco, with 'hand battered fresh avocadoes fried and served with vegetarian refried beans, lettuce, pico, and cheese with poblano ranch on a corn tortilla', was out of this world. I will definitely be back to enjoy amazing tacos in a great atmosphere at a great price.

This Chef's Dilemma

2008-04-24T23:01:00.007-05:00

Michael Pollan did a number on me.

I just recently finished reading the terribly interesting (and terrifying to boot) Omnivore's Dilemma, and this hard line meat eater and sometime vegetarian abuser is a little softer and more sensitive because of it.

I won't get in to the details of the book for those of you who have yet to devour Pollan's work, but I will say this, I finally understand the vegetarian argument. I've seen the 'kill floor' videos, I've witnessed the slaughter of various species for consumption, and I've even done my own share of dirty work, but "It tastes damn good" was always enough of a reason to me. I now find myself actually considering limiting my consumption of meat, unless I can attest to it's origins and sustainability. It won't be an easy feat, but as a chef and a lover of food, I really identified with a quote from Pollan, "You are what you eat eats, too." I just find it hard, knowing full well the impact and cost of our current industrial agricultural system, to ignore the facts and continue to eat the way I have in the past. While I can't see myself going the way of the herbivore, I do foresee a difference in the way I view what I put into my body.