Gastronomical Gear, Volume 2: Pans

Outside of your knives, the cooking implements that come in contact with the food the most are definitely the pans. There is certainly a ridiculous amount of variety and choice in the world of pans, and a lot of terminology that is thrown around. What you need from a pan, conversely, is quite simple. You don't want your food to stick. You want the pan to get hot, stay hot, and transfer that heat to your food evenly.

As we strive to reduce our impact and encourage a healthier and more responsible diet, one thing that is constantly overlooked is the affect what we use to cook, not just what we cook, can have on our bodies. I'm not going to get into the science or health aspects of Teflon and non-stick cookware. All I need to know is that Teflon pans, when heated to a certain temperature (say, smoking hot to sear a piece of meat) release certain toxic gases into the air. Gases that kill pet birds. Frankly, I'd rather not inhale.

Alternatives, you ask?

Cast-iron skillets are 'preferred by chefs,' and for good reason. With proper treatment, they develop a better non-stick coating than their Teflon counterparts, and they'll last a lifetime. That's a lot more than you can say for most cookware. All the non-stick pans I've used in the past were only non-stick quite temporarily.

When I cook, I like to have control over what goes into my food, and with cast-iron, I know because I put it there. Certainly there's a little more upkeep involved in cast-iron cookware, but the results, involving both the food and those consuming it, are well worth the extra time needed to season, clean, and dry.

Surely there are a lot of options within the cast-iron world, and they can be quite expensive. The Le Creuset lines are beautiful, colorful, and enameled to protect the outside of the cookware, but they are quite pricey. Personally, I prefer the rugged beauty of the Lodge pans, and while the outside needs attention to prevent rust much like the inside needs attention, I don't mind giving it. Like I've said, a well-maintained cast-iron set can last a lifetime. Or two.

For my personal use, I have an 8" and a 12" cast iron skillet, as well as this cast-iron grill pan.


These three fill darn near every culinary need, and outside of a few instances, do most of my cooking.

I do like to keep a nice, clad, stainless pan around for certain applications, usually involving acids, that would be detrimental to my cast-iron. An aluminum pan would serve the same function, and at a lower price.


Say searing a chicken breast and then using the drippings to make a pan sauce. Something that would involved de-glazing the pan with alcohol, probably wine (or maybe Bourbon) and that is not something I like to do with cast-iron cookware.

The copper cladding in this pan is really nice as it adds that 'get hot and stay hot' quality of cast-iron and heats the food quite evenly.


While the cast-iron and stainless do provide me with 99% of my pan needs, there are a couple of applications (namely Crepes and Omelettes) than I keep a small Teflon pan around for. You have to be careful not to heat the pan too high and certainly not use metal tools, but the Teflon pan is nice for a handful of applications. I would never spend the big bucks on some of the flashy Teflon cookware out there when the inexpensive restaurant supply brand pans do the trick for a fraction of the price.

As with most things, there is no wrong or right, just what works for you. If you're in the market for cookware, I would definitely advise you to look towards cast-iron and avoid the many pitfalls of over-priced non-stick cookware. They have their place in a kitchen, it's just a very small one.

Gastronomical Gear, Volume 1: The Chef's Knife

As a chef, the equipment you use is an extension of you; how you directly interact with the food. From the professional chef to the casual home cook, a working knowledge of the tools of the trade can only make the cooking experience easier and more enjoyable. With this Gastronomical Gear series of blogs, we'll delve into myriad topics related to culinary tools.

First and foremost in any cook's arsenal is the knife. While there are numerous types of knives for many different jobs, the keystone to any knife kit is the Chef's Knife or Gyutou.

From My Kit

There are volumes of arguments and debate over German vs. Japanese, this brand vs. that brand, and there are no right answers. What matters most is that you find a knife that fits you, and serves your purpose.

When asked what I would recommend, I steer people towards Japanese knives. While German Wusthof's and Henckels' of the world sell quite a few knives based on reputation, Japanese knives are the most advanced in terms of steel, quite varied in terms of purpose, and ultimately perform at a higher level than their German counterparts. There is however, more upkeep involved in a Japanese knife. If you'd like a less labor-intensive but heavier, less agile and certainly less sharp knife, German is for you. Don't forget, there are a lot more accidents with dull knives than sharp, so don't be scared of something exceptionally sharp. The longer I own Japanese knives and I work on my sharpening technique and skill, the more personal these knives become to me, and the more I really appreciate the craftsmanship and history involved in Japanese cutlery.

While the variety and surely the language differences can be overwhelming and possibly discouraging, there is an unanimous 'gateway' knife into the world of Japanese cutlery. The Tojiro line of knives are very affordable (Gyutou from $50-$80, quite competitive with their German counterparts,) very reliable and take a minimal amount of effort to learn and maintain. If you're looking to get into Japanese knives, your first purchase should be a Tojiro DP Gyutou. If you're concerned or wary of a larger knife, start small and move forward from there. This line of knives is available at Korin Trading Co. who offer great customer service and quick shipping. Korin also offers sharpening stones, instructional DVD's and years of experience.

If you're going to buy a Japanese knife, you should absolutely budget for a Sharpening Stone. I'd recommend, for a first-timer, a King 1000/6000 grit stone. It provides you with a medium and a fine stone for a reduced price and in half the space. With Japanese knives, you'll absolutely want to take the time to learn the basics of sharpening, as the results you'll achieve are more than worth it.

There are quite a few resources regarding knives (buying, sharpening, maintenance, etc.) Chad Ward's book An Edge in the Kitchen is a great tool for anyone interested in expanding their knowledge. There is also a very handy Knife Maintenance and Sharpening post by Chad on eGullet. If you're looking for advice, Foodie Forums or the In The Kitchen section of Blade Forums can connect you with many experts and enthusiasts willing to share their experience and knowledge.

I have several links to retailers and resources in the world of kitchen cutlery, and will gladly answer any questions (to the best of my knowledge) or point you in a direction of someone who can answer.

Again, there are no right answers, and your knife should be your choice and make you feel comfortable using it.